Floor Joists bearing on framed wall

Thanks Brian. I saw that line as well. But when I read 502.6 I think of concrete foundation wall with sill plate as wood bearing. I am more concerned with vertical loads transferred directly through that two-by-four framed wall

I see no problem with bearing or support of the floor framing it is holding up, but there is a question as to what is underneath the floor where the support wall is. If designed properly and supported by the wall footing I see no problem with rotation from just a floor weight.

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Again not enough information. What year was the house built? How much of the foundation is below grade? What is the frost line (footer depth) in this location. The only information the OP has given leads to nothing but “theories and asumptions.” Someone signed off on the work and you don’t have the plans to reference.

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I understand your point. But, you notice it also approves joist hangers. Joist hangers would only be used if the end of the joists were not bearing upon a foundation wall/sill plate. Therefore, I can deduce that bearing upon a foundation wall is not required. I am open to other interpretation.

You are on track with your concerns. Check R301.1 for that aspect. Also R502.2 may come into play with the use of AWC NDS for design IF that is what the Engineer is using for his design criteria. If you read the NDS you can see how detailed it can be.

Marcel nailed it with this post.

What it comes down to is what is called for in the engineered design/plans? If you do not have that for reference all you can do is point it out and the fact the plans are not available to determine if correct and to have the Builder display the plans to the client and where this method has been specifically allowed by the Engineer of Record.

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I forgot to mention this. The vertical walls, are they bearing upon the foundation? This could be easily be determined at any door opening.

I mentioned it in an earlier post. Simple measurement would tell, something the OP failed to do. Right back to not enough information.

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I would have more trust in the unseens and the unknowns of the floor system if the builder had at least used some blocking between joists to keep them from twisting and rolling in unison. And what is that- a pressure-treated 1-by-something, laid on top of the foundation wall as a nailer for the OSB subflooring?

Thanks for all your input guys. I punted this one. recommend the buyer verify plans were followed.
I will keep digging. I’ll post here if I find anything out


Maybe it was done to keep the entrance closer to grade for wheelchair accessible? Who knows, we can’t see the whole picture. :thinking:


They could have used these before the floor decking was put on:

I see this a lot in crawl spaces with truss-joists.

A similar lawsuit just filed in my area.

The … claim they later learned that the foundation size of the house was incorrect, and they would be unable to frame the home. The …claim they had to have the basement floor and interior walls raised four inches due to water under the foundation. They were allegedly forced to pay $29,792.00 for the project…allege the defendants failed to lay and pour the correct size foundation


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I’ve seen this done in the case when the home owners or designers don’t want numerous steps at the entrance but the foundation wall still needs the 6" inch clearance. I’ve seen this done with hangers used on the sill plate, interior masonry wall, and with a wall like this.


Not an issue. Looks like original construction. It is typically done to get the ground floor at the same level as the top of the foundation. Another way would be to create a ledge in the foundation wall but this option is better IMO.
I would check if there is a clearance between the studs and concrete wall, if not a PT lumber would be required. I would check for floor bridging/blocking since there is no rim board to keep the joists from rotating. Also, the frame wall would have to be anchored at the b/plate and joists would have to be toe-nailed to the top plate. I’m not sure about the above electrical panel area but there is a nail-guard looking plate, I would expect a horizontal strap extending at least 12-16" on each side of the opening.


You beat me to it. I was just about to say the same thing. Looks like those studs are all touching the concrete.
I also agree it is not an issue with the info provided. They also lined up the joists with the studs below

So, the joists appear to be 2 x 12’s and not required to be blocked or strapped according to the Code section. Good luck with your local Code-Meister. Your results may vary.