Originally Posted By: dbush This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
John, I don’t know of a limit. I see several garages/exterior outlets on one GFCI often. I wanna say there was one with about a dozen on it the other day.
Originally Posted By: Greg Fretwell This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
There is no rule about the number of outlets on a residential circuit. The defacto limit is based on the 3va per square foot in the load calc and the principle that the outlets be evenly distributed across the circuits. Everything is based on anticipated load in a location. The idea is that the end user will still want the same amount of load in a room, no matter how many outlets we have and that the number of outlets installed is only to allow him to access the power without extension cords or cube taps.
That is why we have that 6 foot rule (the length of a Chicago lamp cord)and the rules about wall segments.
Originally Posted By: jmyers This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Quote:
The defacto limit is based on the 3va per square foot in the load calc and the principle that the outlets be evenly distributed across the circuits.
Can you explain the load calc a little further for us less fortunate folks that have never had the pleasure?
If I am understanding the first part correctly, you are saying that the electrician would figure 1,000 square feet (for our hypothetical home) X 3 VA for a total of 3,000VA.
What I don't understand is what that would have to do with the number of receptacles.
Originally Posted By: Greg Fretwell This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
OK lets start with your 1000 sq/ft house. That will probably get 2 general lighting circuits. The outlets should be somewhat evenly divided between them, no many how many the floor plan would require.
Originally Posted By: Greg Fretwell This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
BTW this is where a HI can point out a “design” issue that a code inspector can’t. Your job is to find a problem that will impact a new owner, not simply what the code says. If you did figure out that the particular circuiit layout made no sense and anticipated loads would be excessive on one circuit (maybe 2 window shakers on one circuit) you could write it up.
Originally Posted By: bbadger This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Greg has covered the load issue I would like to get back the GFCI question.
Quote:
Anyone ever heard of a limit on how many outlets can be protected by an upstream GFCI outlet?
No not by the NEC, however some manufactures set limits and those limits should be followed.
That said the jobs I work are commercial and any job that has a good engineer will not protect any downstream outlets from a GFCI.
There are 2 good reasons for this.
1) Every appliance has 'leakage current' this leakage current can add up and cause nuisance tripping of the GFCI. The fewer appliances on one GFCI the less this leakage current matters
2) Convenience, with the reset button located at the outlet it is easy to find.
-- Bob Badger
Electrical Construction & Maintenance
Moderator at ECN
Originally Posted By: dedwards This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
While I got you sparkies on the board let me pose a real problem I just had in my own kitchen.
Gas range with electronic ignition versus pilot lights that is on one of the small appliance circuits in the kitchen. The GFCI for that particular circuit turns out to be faulty. The first indications were the burner ignitors would contiuously snap or spark for almost a half minute than the GFCI would trip then could not be reset. I changed out the GFCI for a new one and problems went away. One did not seem to me to be related to the other but I have no plausible explanation. What do you think?
Originally Posted By: Greg Fretwell This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Bob I think feed through GFCIs can make sense in a residential as long as they are grouped together. Having the GFCI trip 4 feet away in the kitchen is not a problem. IMHO
I don’t like GFCIs located in wet locations under a bubble cover but it should be in the nearest readily accessible dry location.
(In my patio/pool area I went with feed through receptacles and a dead front GFCI under a flip cover, in a damp location)
I do agree it is just stupid to have the GFCI feed 2 bathrooms on different floors.
These are still just design issues. Inspectors have to trust good electricians to make good decisions. I have actually not had bad experiences with this since the guys I worked with were not only installing the equipment, they were usually going to own it after I left.
Originally Posted By: Greg Fretwell This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Doug, 2 things come to mind. Either the GFCI was not “making” the circuit well, allowing an arcing fault that tricked the igniter, or the igniter fried the GFCI. If the igniter is bad you will be back, otherwise it is just “fixed another one!”
Originally Posted By: dedwards This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Greg,
Thanks. When I changed out the GFCI the wiring was back stabbed so you may have hit the nail on the head. Could have been a poor connection from the get go. I double checked the old GFCI and it is shot.