I Have just read the article “Installing attic Insulation” . Not only was this very informative but it also gave tips on what to look for in an inspection situation.
All in all, well written, clear and informative in many aspects both obvious and not so obvious.
Suggested reading for other candidates .
Reading
I read an article on r-value and it was very interesting. It said that energy costs for a house cost 50-70% and insulation can be a huge factor in affecting that 50-70%. Also trying to put more insulation in a wall cavity by squishing it in there will only decrease the r-value. If done properly insulation can make your house much more efficient.
I apologize, I am having trouble with the pictures on my phone for the second week. I took a picture of my rim which is sprayed with closed cell spray foam, my whole house is sprayed with closed cell spray foam. My house is insulated very well.
Attic inspection
I inspected insulation in the house in accessible areas. In those areas I noticed doors and windows are insulated, rim and walls are spray foamed, some walls are sound batted, and attic has inch and a half of spray foam then an r-44 blown fiberglass on top. Both bath fans exit the house thru gable end of attic and dryer is vented out as well. Out of everything I looked at for this inspection there are no concerns to be addressed.
Good morning; This is a picture of interior wall in a cottage I was visiting. I could see mineral wool batt insulation, 6 mil polyethylene vapor barrier and some type of black vapor barrier adhesive…
Good Morning; As part of this course I did an inspection of attic,insulation,ventilation and interior of a friends home in northern Ontario.I inspected the attic from the access hatch.The roof was rafter configuration and had soffit and ridge venting.The insulation was blown in fiber loose fill fiberglass, I measured an approximate thickness of 4" x 2.5 = approximate R-10 rating.I wrote this in my report as absence of enough insulation and correction is needed.The windows were horizontal sliders the home had one exterior egress door which measured 36" wide and a 6 foot sliding patio door in front.
Good Morning; As part of this course I read 10 easy ways to save money and energy in your home .I found it to be very informative.I found the part on changing furnace filters particularly interesting as I was at a friends house last week, we were in his basement near the furnace and I could hear a whining coming from the furnace cabinet.As I pulled out his furnace filter the whining stopped…the filter was clogged with so much dust and debris it was straining the furnace fan…needless to say we changed out the filter and friend will check and change filter as part of his monthly maintenance
wall construction of an interior basement wall, without vapor barrier or insulation installed
http://www.nachi.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=88015&stc=1&d=1428170731
While doing the inspection for the lesson, I discovered an automatic garage door opened without and safety features at all. I was shocked that not only was this opened still functional, there were no safety features available. This was not tampered with. I believe that the opener will soon be replaced.
I went into the crawlspace to find that all the insulation requirements have been met. If someone sees some thing I have not, I would like to here from you
Hello
Starting this course today hope it goes well.
Inspection of stair risers and tread shows that the riser height is within normal limits at 7 inches for each tread. The average stair depth measures 10 3/4" which is within appropriate limits. The initial step tread depth measures 12 1/2". This exceeds the smallest tread by over 2". The greatest tread depth within any flight of stairs should not exceed the smallest by more than 3/8-inch. The nosing of each tread measures 2 1/4". On stairways with solid risers, there should be a nosing at least 3⁄4-inch and not more than 1-1⁄4 inches
These pictures show inadequate insulation in the attic, as well as a stack venting into the attic and not out through the roof.
I read the article “Installing Attic Insulation.” It illustrated a notched board to screed off blown insulation to a certain height. But, wouldn’t this cause thermal bridging? Just a thought…
This is a photo of a attic space. As one can see water intrusion has stained the insulation. There is also settling in the insulation causing R factor loss.
Here is a picture of a plumbing leak under a crawl space, and also no vapor barrier.
Recently inspected a ranch house of a friend. In what seems the rule more than the exception, the attic was woefully lacking in insulation. He had no complaints about utility bills but I wondered how much better that would be with a few basic improvements. The attic access was a pull down stair in the main hall of the house. No weather sealing around the hatch, and not insulation above. When I’ve installed stair units such as these I’ve built a box in the attic to the depth of the insulation and added a second door with insulation attached on top. This house had plywood flooring on top of the truss chords with items stored on the flooring. Not only did this restrict the amount of insulation to less than adequate, but loaded the trusses with additional weight they were not designed to accommodate. I suggested he remove the flooring, build a box around the stairs with an insulated door and insulate the attic to meet contemporary standards. In other respects the attic roof and exhaust systems were in order
Hello,
This is my first attempt at this so here goes. This is a photo of a job I did last summer.
The owner had foam insulation sprayed into the walls, floors and ceilings of his home. The foam made the whole place a lot quieter.[ATTACH]88178
