Below-grade foundation walls can be designed in a variety of ways. At a minimum, the exterior surface should be damp-proofed and have a vapor retarder. Rigid insulation can be installed on the exterior face prior to back filling. This can significantly improve the thermal properties of the crawlspace or basement.
This is a picture of a crawlspace that has 20 mil water barrier on the dirt floor. You can see the remnants of paper from the former baffles of fiberglass insulation that was once suspended under the floorboards but have since been removed. This crawlspace has its vents sealed and is following the air flow free thought process that seems to be the more modern standard of keeping the crawlspace airtight. Seems are taped with some special tape and the walls have 3 inches thick of cyanine spray foam insulation. This crawlspace appears professionally done as a homeowner is unlikely to do this, and the cyanine spray foam insulation is not something found at the local Home Depot.
I chose the picture of attic insulation that has yellow and black mold growth/ spores on it as the bathroom exhaust ventilation exists into the attic and not to the outdoors. This leads to a deposit of humidity into the attic which the fiberglass insulation provides it enough food and a home to grow on.
There seemed to be adequate insulation in the attic. There were boards for walking on, giving access to the entire attic. Attic was well lit with overhead lighting. Depth of insulation was at least 12". No visible signs of water intrusion on roof sheathing.
I read the “Insualtion R-Value” article. It helped be to learn more about R-values and how they are calculated. The chart that referenced the different R-values for different types of insulators was wonderful to take a look at. I learned that even with good insulation, if the building has air leaks, the energy loss could still be severe.
I choose the article “Attic Pull-Down Ladders” . Attic pull-down ladders can have multiple defects however most are do to improperly installation. The most serious defect could be that the installer cut the structural components to installed the ladder. Structural members should not be modify without and engineer’s approval. There are some safety measurements and good practices like not taking many heavy loads of storage items all at once through the stairs. Instead it is advice that the load may be distribute in multiple trips because the ladder may not support a heavy load.
Fiberglass Insulation: History, Hazards, and Alternatives
I chose this article because fiberglass insulation is by far the most common, popular insulation type I’ve encountered in Northeast Tennessee. During the 6,000 energy efficiency audits I’ve performed, I’ve run into all types of insulation including fiberglass in various forms. This article talks about some general information related to fiberglass insulation,and touches on best installation practices. The end of the article also mentions some alternatives to this product, mainly cellulose which I have noticed is gaining in popularity in recent years.
I am not a huge fan of using fiberglass batts on the attic flat. First, there are too many gaps and voids created by installing batts between joists, since this leaves the joists themselves uninsulated. This adds up quick, since there is a roughly 2" gap every 16-24". Second, I’ve found that too often, wiring and other components prevent the insulation from actually resting on the drywall it is supposed to be insulating. Obviously, this defeats the purpose of insulting since it does no good if the insulation isn’t in continuous contact with the surface it’s meant to insulate. Also, fiberglass batts are prone to gravity and frequently fall if used on a steep slope or vertical application. Another negative in my opinion is the tendency for less knowledgeable installers (and often homeowners themselves) to install it incorrectly, making it useless in some cases or creating potential moisture issues in others where the kraft paper facing is facing the wrong way. Another common mistake I’ve encountered too many times to count is the installation of fiberglass batts with truss flooring systems. Typically, the batts are attached to the bottom of the trusses, leaving a foot or more of space between the batts and the subfloor it should be touching and completely negating any benefits of the insulation. In cases of adding more insulation where batts were previously installed, I’ve always preferred blowing a thick layer of loose fill fiberglass over the existing batts. This way it gets down into the gaps and voids left by the batts, covers exposed bare joists to reduce thermal gaps and bridging, and is still less dense than the original layer, keeping it effective.
The only thing I was disappointed about in this article was that there was very little said about the importance of air sealing prior to adding insulation, since this more or less determines how effective the insulation is. Overall, a good article especially for the average homeowner.
This is an image taken at the attic. It shows how the insulation is not covering the free flow of air from the outside. It meets the regulation that the insulation should have a minimum 1-inch space provided between the insulation and the roof deck sheathing and at the location of the vent. Unvented attic spaces may void the warranty of the roof covering because the temperature of the attic could became too high thus reducing the life of the shingle covering.
Square D 100 amp sub panel. The panel is.located in the utility room of the basement. During the inspection of the branch circuit conductors it was noted that two conductors were connected to one circuit breaker. This is known as a double tap. Recommend this item be addressed by a qualified electrician.
Observed condensation, or staining between the window panes, which indicates a failed seal. Recommend qualified window contractor evaluate, repair, or replace.
Window condensation will inevitably lead to irreversible, window damage. This damage can appear in the following two ways (This is for the buyers information only):
Riverbedding. Condensed vapor between the glass panes will form droplets that run down the length of the window. Water that descends in this fashion has the tendency to follow narrow paths and carve grooves into the glass surface. These grooves are formed in a process similar to canyon formation; and
Silica haze. Once the silica gel has been saturated, it will be eroded by passing air currents, accumulating as white snowflakes on the window surface.
The article I chose was 10 ways to save energy. The area of the article that I found most intriguing regarding a question I am asked often by my clients, in terms of how much money they could save per degree they decide to adjust on their thermostat. Two percent per degree is an awesome rule of thumb.
The inspection image I took is of the master bath located within my home. The master bath is on the second floor of the home, and has 2 faucets, a shower/tub and a separate water closet with its own door within the master bath. There is 1 exhaust fan located within the water closet and a small horizontal sliding window above the shower/tub. There are conditions that exists that suggest insufficient bathroom ventilation. There are moisture stains on all ceilings and walls, damaged paint on non-shower walls, and there is a material that appears to be microbial growth on the window seal above the shower. This issue must be corrected to avoid structural decay and any possible respiratory health issues.
During interior inspection there were signs of truss uplift. Movement of trusses will cause drywall damage and could cause a vey serious safety hazard, causing injury to the homeowner. Entery to the attic was necessary to identify if there was indeed truss uplift.
Building permits seem like a waste od time and money to most homeowners. But due to the lack of proper building knowledge by most contractors permits will save the homeowner in the long run. It only take filling out a few forms and a small amount of money to add peice of mind to any project.
This is an inspection of a pier and beam foundation also known as a crawlspace. By today’s standards a vapor barrier would be placed directly on the dirt. The vapor barrier would consist of a minimum 6 mil polyethylene vapor barrier. This barrier would be laid out over the dirt in large sheets. These sheet would overlap a minimum of six inches at the seams. These vapor barrier are utilized for the prevention of water vapor wicking up from the earth and settling on the underside of the flooring and causing wood rot or even traveling through the floor and increasing humidity levels within a home.
Using the U-factor to determine the efficiency of a window. Most home owners have heard the words R-value, used when determining the insulation effectiveness. Windows use a couple other factors when determining their efficiency and one of those factors is the U-factor. In-order to translate the U-factor into an R-vale simply divide 1 by the U-factor. For example: U-value is .15 (1/.15= 6.6) so your R-value is 6.6.
This is an insulated basement wall in climate zone 5. The insulation is fiberglass roll between the poured in place concrete wall and what appears to be and feels like vinyl. There isn’t any permeable rating shown on the covering. This needs to be a vapor diffusion retarder allowing moister to dry toward the inside conditioned space.
The rise of interior stairs pictured is 7 in and is in the approved threshold.
The treads are 11 inches with a one inch nosing and is within the appropriate measurement for a tread.
The rails have a 5 inch spacing which is NOT acceptable spacing and is a concern for safety.
I read an article titled A Garage Inspection in the Library of Inspection Articles. I observed how the inspector listened to a neighbor that had issues with an identical garage in the winter prior. The inspector than took carful notice to structural issues the garage being inspected might have. I also learned how to look for improper alterations and bearing points. The inspector found and inadequate metal joist hanger as well as inadequate fasteners used on the joist hanger. In summary, I learned to listen to insight about the building being inspected from owners and to closely investigate any concerns they may have.
Spot ventilation can be found in areas like bathrooms, laundry rooms and above cooking surfaces. These need to be check for function, and more importantly, that they actually terminate at the exterior of the structure. When inspecting the attic, one must make note if any vents terminate inside the attic. This situation can cause excessive moisture to be introduced to the attic and can cause structural decay and respiratory health issues. Improper spot ventilation termination must be reported and corrected.