While inspecting the electrical system it is very important that inspectors understand the different types of cables used throughout the electrical system in the home/building. The image I chose shows 4 types of cables
NM cable- Romex Cable, It is a non-metallic sheathed cable composed of two or more insulated conductors contained in non-metallic sheath
SE cable- begins at the splice and enter the meter. Style R SE cable are the only exception inside the home for ovens and clothes drier
AC cable- (BX) this is an armored cable follows similar rules as Romex but the difference is AC cables have a flexible metallic sheathing for extra protection
Underground Feeder (UF)- is another Romex cable similar to NM or NMC but contains a solid plastic core and cannot be rolled between fingers
Electrical Service Panels was the article I used in this assignment I learned that safety is key when it comes to Electrical panels there have been many people even experienced electricians have got injured or worse. You must remain come and avoid distractions. Any small motion or noise can startle you to touch a live component. You should advise client to not remove the panel cover themselves. There are also certain safety questions including escape plans, safe pathways, space around you is the required measurements. Are you in a wet area? Or are the pipes above dripping? Other moisture? Panel rust? You should use a voltage ticker to make sure the panel is safe to touch. Safety glasses/gloves are essential when handling any electrical component. Also inspectors should stand a little back during removal of the panel cover. If client is near make sure you stand in blocking position. Inform client of the dangers and risk there is while dealing with the panel. Then goes through steps of a Service Panel Inspection.
The attached photo displays several defects in the wiring of the main lugs, primarily the use of the red/pink color for the grounded conductor. Also, they are overstripped and possibly subject to arching. This is a safety hazard because color is used to identify the electrified and grounded conductors. This might have been overcome by using white or gray tape on the conductor.
Double tapped wiring is ok if the circuit breaker is designed for two conductors. If a circuit breaker is designed for two conductors, it will say so right on the circuit breaker, and the terminal of the circuit breaker will be designed to hold two conductors in place.
It isn’t necessarily an issue about overloading the circuit. If the circuit breaker isnt designed to hold two conductors, the conductors could come loose at some point in the future, even if they feel very tight today. Loose conductors can lead to overheating, arcing, and possibly a fire
In the article “Inspecting Aluminum Wiring” By Nick Gromicko and Kenton Shard I learned about aluminum wiring. It was used between 1965 and 1973 due to increased cost of copper at that time. It is a poor choice for wiring because it tends to have loose connections that can cause and have caused fires. There are ways to remedy houses that were wired at that time. The homeowner has the option of having a rewire done with copper or use copalum crimps.
I chose to inspect a GFCI outlet in a bathroom. The outlet shows signs of a lot of use but shows no signs of burning or charring. When pressing the test button, it tripped and worked well. The outlet is in good standing at the time of inspection.
This electric panel has significant signs of water penetration and rust. The 100 amp panel is lacking a drip loop to aid in water mitigation. There is double tapping on the left side of the panel. This needs to be corrected. Some of the breakers show signs of arcing and over heating. Panel should be assessed by a licensed electrician.
I chose to read the article “Electrical Terms”. I did this to brush up on the terms and try to memorize the ones I didn’t know. I had always been confused if a home was AC or DC. This article helped me remember that houses are AC.
Rigid conduit or EMT conduit entering a electrical panel needs to be properly grounded to the existing panel. The conduit nipple should have a lock nut and nylon bushing on the end to protect the wire inside from rubbing on the metal conduit.
Image one is of the receptical in the master bathroom. It is located within 12 inches of the bathroom sink. It was noted that it was not GFCI protected and there were no GFCI breakers present in the main service panel and no sub panels were found. Image two is of the receptical in the main bathroom on the top floor. This receptical is GFCI protected. Upon further investiagtion it was found that the master bathroom receptical was protected by the main bathroom GFCI and that it did function properly. Furthermore, all of the kitchen, garage and exterior recepticals were protected by and reset by the main bathroom GFCI.
I viewed the Maximum Distance to Receptacles image. It states very clearly that the maximum distance between receptacles, along the floor, is six feet. To me, that would mean a receptacle is going to be found every six feet. The image paints slightly different picture. The image shows an 18 foot wall with 2 receptacles, instead of 3. There is one receptacle next to an adjoining wall then 12 feet before another receptacle that is 6 feet from the opposite adjoining wall. What is also pictured is a lamp that sits at the 6 foot mark within the 12 foot span, making it 6 feet from both receptacles. So, what this tells me, is that a lamp (or similar) is considered an appropriate outlet and can be spaced accordingly.
In todays inspection, I am inspecting the electrical components in the second floor hallway bathroom. I inspected the GFCI located next to the sink. The receptacle is in good working order and was tested and reset. There was no open ground indicated or reverse polarity within the wiring.
Todays Electrical article is on electrical service panels. Many people have been seriously injured or killed due to defective components or complacency. When inspecting panels you should practice calm and steady movements and your clients should stand clear. Look for signs of water intrusion and heat prior to touching. You can also use a voltage meter as a safety check prior to inspecting.
This is a photo of a garage service panel.It is located in a detached garage with the feeder line brought in from the house.The panel is a 40 amp with 7 breakers and one main disconnect.There is a legend in the panel and dead front screws are correct.There is a added 20 amp outlet whose nm line going to the box is not fastened properly and needs to be addressed.
This metal outlet box is exposed in a living area. There is a knockout that has no plug leaving risk of injury to someone putting any object into it. You should seek a licensed electrician to replace the knockout with a plug.
I read a article on GFCIs for my essay.The history on them goes back quite a ways going back to the 1950s and being developed for wider use in the 1970s.They were originally of the breaker type but have been put in outlet form.Over the years the required places used have been increased.As of 2008 GFCIs are used in all bathrooms,kitchens,wet bars,garages, crawl spaces,boathouses,and rooftops.Testing a GFCI is easy by pushing the test and reset button to see function.GFCIs can be wired in a series correctly with a breaker in service panel.
In the picture of the deck with an outside receptacle, I first noticed it is not gfci receptacle. Also it was not a water tight outlet box which would allow moisture into the receptacle. I would suggest a licesenced electrician come and replace this with a water tight cover and gfci receptacle.
In this image we see an outlet that is non GFCI protected. This out let is located in a bathroom at the sink. All outlets in a bathroom should be protected by GFCI. Check for protection using GFCI outlet tester.
The InterNACHI Illustrations Gallery has an informative diagram on lighting outlet requirements. It is a useful guide showing you what rooms and areas of a home need to have lighting outlets controlled by a wall-switch, such as bedrooms, bath rooms, garage, and hallway areas. Lighting areas that must be switch controlled if space used for storage, such as utility rooms, basements, attic spaces, and storage rooms. Staircases that have more than 6 steps must have lighting switches that control lights on both levels. This is a useful guide to make sure homes pass basic standards for lighting requirements.
In the provided picture you will see a junction in attic space missing a junction box. As you can see, the power is joined by quick connects and can easily be pull apart. As this is electrical safety hazard as well as a fire hazard, a simple junction box should be used to protect the junction.
