This inspection was performed from the roof top. 3 Tab asphalt shingles are in place with no damages or defects noted. The top asphalt layer is in good condition throughout the roof covering. One picture is identifying one of two skylights that shows proper flashings.
It is the covering on the uppermost part of a building or shelter which provides protection from animals and weather, notably rain or snow, but also heat, wind and sunlight. The word also denotes the framing or structure which supports that covering.This is a picture of my roof.
Re: Reading and Writing Assignment
Re: “Cool” Energy-Efficient Roofs
For warmer climates, this seems like a energy conscious choice for a roof covering. Unlike asphalt shingles, reflective roofs are engineered to reflect the sun’s energy away from the structure rather than absorbing a lot of it. It even sounds like some municipalities offer energy savings and utility rebates to encourage the widespread use of cool roofs.
Re: Inspecting Underlayment on Roofs
Although inspectors are not required to confirm that the proper type of underlayment was used, to identify if and what was used is beneficial to a more complete report and to the homeowner. It is also important to remember that the underlayment is the secondary water barrier; the choice of roof coverings being the primary barrier. Once again, climate helps determine the proper underlayment to be used. They can become filled with moisture in hot and humid climates or they could become fragile and brittle in colder, dry climates.
Damage to the asphalt shingle roof can be caused by overhanging tree branches rubbing against the roof should be repaired to help prevent damage from moisture intrusion to the home materials, the roof structure and to prevent development of microbial growth such as mold. The Inspector recommends that all tree branches be cut back so that they do not overhang the roof. All work should be performed by qualified contractors.
Cap shingles were missing from the roof. Cap shingles are shingles that cover areas where the roof changes direction, like at roof peaks and hips. Cap shingles are often the first shingles lost to wind due to their exposed position on the roof and since their installation requires that fasteners penetrate another layer. If the same fasteners used to fasten field shingles are used to fasten cap shingles, fastener penetration may be inadequate, lowering the wind resistance of cap shingles. Any missing cap shingles should be replaced by a qualified roofing contractor to avoid damage to the home structure from moisture intrusion. If existing fasteners are discovered to be of inadequate length, all cap shingles should be re-fastened or adhered with an appropriate adherent.
I read an article regarding Mastering Roof Inspections: Attic Area Roof Inspection. The attic is an important area where you can find evidence of roof leaks. Looking for daylight in the attic and using a moisture meter are two inspection techniques to assist with the attic inspection.
Another article I read was Roof Structure Ventilation: Attic Ventilations Systems. A roof structure that is ventilated properly can use air to transfer the heat from the attic or roof to the outside. If a roof is improperly vented it can reduce the life of some types of roofing material including the most common asphalt material for my area, asphalt shingles.
Reading and writing assignment:
Article 1: Mastering roof inspections: Asphalt composition shingles, part 1
I found this article very informative. I was completely unaware of the materials used to make asphalt shingles. I particularly found the fiberglass mat interesting seeing how it provides reinforcement and gives strength to help resist splitting and tearing.
Article 2: Fiberglass insulation: history, hazards and alternatives
Good article on fiberglass insulation. I was surprised to see that some estimates suggests, thermal insulation conserves 12 times as much energy as it lost. Also, its good to know the health risks that come with working around fiberglass.
This picture shows the transition from the asphalt shingle roof of the main structure to the minimally sloped metal roof of the carport. Due to structural damage to the vertical support system of the carport, the metal roof now has backslope toward the main structure. This has caused extensive water damage/rot to the rafter tails on the south side of the roof of the main structure.
I read the articles: Mastering a Roof Inspection: Roof Framing (Parts 1-3). These articles discussed the two main, basic roof structure systems: conventional roof framing and roof trusses.
Part 1 of the series explained the various components of a conventional roof structure including rafters, purlin systems, and overframing. Metal connectors and fasteners were discussed in part 2, including the difference between withdrawal and shear failure. Part 3 focused on roof trusses, and emphasized how structurally precise these components are designed, thus requiring special attention to any modifications.
In each of these articles, the awareness of variations in roof structures was emphasized, and inspectors were admonished to leave structural cures to the expertise of a licensed contractor or structural engineer.
For the Inspection & Writing Assignment of this course, I inspected roof per the SOP guidelines, that is, from the ground level (though eve level is also acceptable) and focused on
the roof-covering materials;
the gutters;
the downspouts;
the vents, flashing, skylights, chimney, and other roof penetrations; and
the general structure of the roof from the readily accessible panels, doors or stairs.
The attached photo shows a piece of gutter hanging from the eve. These eves are way too short for the home to not have gutters. Water run off is certain to damage the fascia board, soffit, and can easily seep into the foundation.
For the Reading & Writing Assignment I read Mastering Roof Inspections: Roof Drainage Systems, Parts 1 & 2
Drainage systems are an extremely important part of any home. Faulty drainage systems can adversely affect many other key systems of a home, such as the roof, attic, structure/frame, and foundation.
It is quite common to have external gutter and downspout systems installed to move rainwater off the roof and to a safe distance from the home. Gutters might be made of vinyl, aluminum, galvanized steel, or copper. Each has its own advantages and disadvantages regarding cost, durability, upkeep and appearance.
The gutter problems an inspector might find may be related to the materials from which the gutters are made, the quality of installation, the environmental conditions, or some combination of all three.
Drainage systems might also be internal, or “built it”. There are two types of built-in gutters. One is usually installed a foot or so back from the edge. The installation method for these is crucial because leaks will allow moisture into the framing or home interior where it can cause decay or other damage. The other type is built into the edge of the roof and is more common; roofs with this type of gutter are easy to spot because the roof slope will not extend clear to the edge of the roof.
Either internal or external gutters will get water safely off of the roof, but once collected into a gutter, water must find its way to a safe distance from the house and its foundation. This is done with a series of downspouts, but it is important that they are installed correctly and that any needed accessories (like extension tubing or splash block) and in place so water does not accumulate at the home’s foundation.
Like gutters, downspouts may be internal or external. Both have advantages, but one clear disadvantage of internal downspouts is that problems my exist for a long time before they are noticed, and after severe damage has occurred to other key systems of the home.
Reading and writing assignment:
Article 1: Mastering roof inspections:
I found this article very informative. I was completely unaware of the materials used to make asphalt shingles.
Article 2: Fiberglass insulation: history, hazards and alternatives
Great article on fiberglass insulation. I was surprised to see that some estimates suggests, thermal insulation conserves 12 times as much energy as it lost. Also, its good to know the health risks that come with working around fiberglass.
This picture of an architectural shingled roof taken from the eaves. As you can see, the roof covering is in good condition. There was a drip edge installed and the shingles extend 1/4’’ past the edge. The gutters are equipped with gutter guards to prevent debris build up. As I was inspecting the roof, I noticed the siding along the rake was having paint failures and starting to decay. As you can see the siding is butted up against the shingles all along the rake. There is a step flashing installed however, the siding being placed directly against the roofing material is allowing water to be wicked up into the flashing causing the siding material to fail.
I inspected the eave of the roof using a 10’step ladder. The covering was 3tab asphalt shingles that appeared to be in good condition. The drip edge and fascia were also in good condition and showed no signs of weathering.
Roofing consumer targeted is basically an overview on the types of roofs, the importance of maintenance and stressing the importance of a competent contractor. It goes on to say that a typical roof will last about 15-20 years and when it comes to replacing them it can be costly depending on the type of material you choose.
The three different types of underlayment for roofing includes asphalt saturated felt, rubberized asphalt, and non-bitumen synthetic. Typical in older homes, asphalt saturated felt comes in 15 or 30 lb options but its phasing out due to its origins with crude oil. Rubberized asphalt is easier to work with because of its self adhesion on one side that also goes around fasteners such as nails and staples with ease. “Mod Bit” or modified bitumen is applied to various types of hydrocarbons. It can sometimes be mixed with polymers that makes the roof much more damage resistant or deteriorate slower.
For the reading/writing assignment I read the following two articles:
Mastering Roof Inspections: Asphalt Composition Shingles, Part 1
Asphalt shingles are also known as composition shingles, since they are a composite product made from a mat (either fiberglass or cellulose), asphalt, and minerals. All modern shingles in North America have mats made of interwoven fiberglass strands. Older shingles may have mats made of cellulose-based material, known as organic shingles. The mat in both fiberglass and organic shingles gives the shingles the strength to resist splitting, tearing, and pulling over the heads of fasteners. Fiberglass shingles are more resistant to heat and humidity, and they absorb less moisture, so they deform less as they get older. Fiberglass shingles from different manufacturers have different levels of performance.
Mastering Roof Inspections: Asphalt Composition Shingles, Part 2
Organic shingles have a mat made of cellulose, which comes from wood chips and recycled cardboard, rags, and paper. The cellulose mat is saturated with asphalt, then it is sandwiched between layers of thicker asphalt. They have not been manufactured since about 2006. In cold climates, cellulose shingles can be more durable than fiberglass shingles due to their thicker, flexible, double-asphalt layers. Organic shingles slowly lose volatiles as they age, mostly due to evaporation. This loss of volatiles happens more quickly in warm climates and in homes with poor roof ventilation. The volatiles help make the shingles flexible, durable, and waterproof, so as the volatiles are lost, the shingles become more brittle, less durable, and they absorb more water. Absorbing moisture causes the shingles to expand and distort. Delamination of the layers of the shingle can occur over time as the asphalt layers deteriorate. Different batches of shingles have small differences in the quality and thickness of the asphalt, leading to different rates of deterioration. This can often be seen as a diagonal pattern on the roof due to the way in which successive courses of shingles are installed.
Downspout on the right side of my house.
I visually inspected the downspout. It was properly connected to both the gutter system above and the house using an aluminum strap and tapcons. The bottom of the downspout is connected to a flex system that diverts water away from the foundation of the house. I then brought out a ladder and inspected the inside of the downspout. There were no blockages of any kind. It appears to be in good working order without any dents, rust, or tears. The joints line up correctly and are fastened together with the correct screws. Just for good measure I took a look at the gutter it was attached to while I was up on the ladder. The gutter was clean and free of debris. All is well on the right side of my house.
-Sean Whaley
I chose to do my inspection on the gutter systems, I have provided a picture as reference. upon my inspection I found the gutter system well in tact all joints are leak free and well attached. The gutters drain dumps a minimum of 12 inches from the foundation of the home per the requirements. To conclude I would give this system a pass even though there is some superficial rusting.
A Garage Inspection
This was an interesting read. I don’t know how often inspectors get information from neighbors but it proved to be invaluable. From the pictures it was obvious that there had been some modification, and this warrants further inspection. Looking closely at how the trusses are connected and what they are connected to made all the difference here.
Barbeque Safety
Grill safety is important no matter what type you are using. Information seems to be the key here. Propane grills need be to checked for leaks along the connections prior to first use or if not used for some time. Charcoal grills can omit carbon monoxide, so ventilation is key here. So is using the correct starter fluid. And obviously don’t use any fluids on electric grills. Keep all outdoor grills away from combustibles and vegetation. And never leave a grill unattended. Make sure when you are done using a grill that the propane is turned off or the fire is fully extinguished. And having a extinguisher or garden hose nearby never hurts.
-Sean Whaley