When you need a garage door opener installed and the beam is in the damn way… forgidaboutit, simply notch the beam. Don’t worry about the structure of the garage, as long as you can get an electric door opener installed.
“Click to Enlarge”
When you need a garage door opener installed and the beam is in the damn way… forgidaboutit, simply notch the beam. Don’t worry about the structure of the garage, as long as you can get an electric door opener installed.
“Click to Enlarge”
Damn David…it also looks like there is a natural horizontal split in the beam right above where they stopped hacking…:shock:
Good craftsmanship with the sawzall though.
I can’t see the radius of the horizontal track, but it appears the closer could have been dropped by 4" and still work.
Ah well, the sawzall was handy. ha. ha.
Marcel
Plumbers and and now, home owners, have to be banned from owning or renting the “housewrecker” …it gives them the feel of too much power.:shock: :shock:
It absolutely could have been dropped 4 inches to avoid the notching.
My original clients walked from this house and I can’t believe I was there again yesterday for another Buyer. As we walked towards this garage, my client stated, “Don’t even bother with the inspection of the garage, we are tearing it down”.
Well, that was easy.
Hey David, sounds like gravey money the second time around. ha. ha.
Marcel
Yes it was.
I basically walked them through the house (as I did for my previous clients), while still inspecting components one more time. I spent most of my time in the kitchen completing the second report on this home.
I did inform them that I was there 10 days ago. He simply stated “So you make double the money on one home.” I agreed.
Jeez, got a red for this post!! Must be a plumber some where on the board.
:twisted: :twisted: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
What about this?
It’s amazing the levels to which people will go just to do it wrong :mrgreen:
I have seen this often. I always suggest metal strapping placed under the opener track, and bolted under-side of the notched joists with at least two lag bolts at each end of the strap. I prefer to use at least 1/4 inch thick strapping.
I can just see a homeowner picking up a 18" chunk of metal and installing it with 4 - 1 1/4" lag bolts and when it breaks…he said to do it like that:shock: …Ooops!..might want to leave the fixes to the engineers.
Notches of any size (that includes cuts) are not permitted on the tension side of a beam 4 inches or greater in width.
I just assumed that you could shave off a little.
http://www.nachi.tv/ppv/5
Paige does an demonstration here, guys. Watch it. If you’re not blown away - tell me.
What’s that about plumbers?
I’d say that it’s not the plumbers fault or problem.
The plumber is really limited where fixtures can be installed.
That notch (whose depth can’t be greater than actual joist depth divided by 6) is the result of poor planning by the general. No?
A good framer will give consideration to the toilet and tub pulling his layout around them, if possible.
Ben, you are positively right when considering a new build dwelling, it is up to the G.C. to coordinate and frame the house to it’s drawings and planned specification.
Obviously, if this is a new built, that wasn’t done.
On the other hand if this is an existing build, and plumber is hired to do this, well maybe the plumber was told to notch it by the Owner because he did not want to pay a carpenter to head it off.
Hell, I can’t always blame it on the Plumber, it is up to the trades to belly up to all their share in working as a team and not against each other.
The other scenario, would be that the homeOwner did it.
Ahh, a DIY.
Marcel
This truss was cut for a vent from a fan hood. Guess they didn’t make elbows back then.