Plan is to re-flash all the headers…replace all the trim w/hardie - same thickness as the wood. Inject 3/8" gaps, backing rod, and sonolastic 150 in the sides and top. New - non-asphalt SAM on the header w/custom-made metal header flashing w/custom edges.
One difficulty is that the siding will stay on the sides, so there will only be 3.5" of space, which limits options to re-SAM (assuming SAM is there).
Above, several siding rows will be taken off to properly flash the headers.
No caulk above the Z-metal (as it is today, and is failing). Caulk between the windows and all trim, 3/8" wide. Sonolastic 150.
Don’t know all the answers – I am new to the FLIR and am just getting used to it. I’ve spent about 4 days so far thinking about infrared, the uses and implications of it.
The Flir S/W was helpful to point out the dewpoints and to allow me to attempt to find areas within the range.
The Delmhorst was useful to test wood – nothing above 7-8% so far with this meter.
The Wagner EM was good for non-invasive testing…lots of low readings – 305% on drywall, 6-8% on wood trim (inside), and perhaps 10% when it hits a nail head
I’m convinced there are signs of past leakage in 3 of 4 banks of windows, based on the drywall that is missing on the inside. The leakage appears to have happened at the header. Could have been caulk failure, white wood crack failure, SAM, flashing, etc…we’ll see what is missing when it gets ripped out. Could have been the case that the rain just came up under the Z-metal that is between the window and trim (not the Z-metal above the trim) and caulked.
Windows are Marvin Integrity, which recommend against Asphalt SAMs. We’ll see what was used.
The topic that I am spending more time on of late is the specifics on the best header layering for a coastal environment. Lots of different opinions on this.
The likely recommendation will be to lose the Z-metal above the window and just put in the backer rod & 3/8" sonolastic 150 caulk there and on the sides…Z-metal above the trim. New SAM for the header, below and above the WRB. Custom Z-metal w/edges to prevent rain-driven wind from the sides. No caulk above the Z-metal. Hardie trim to deal with the exposure.
