I inspected a factory built wood burning fireplace. First there was a lot of creosote build-up and recommend getting it cleaned before using again and get cleaned every year before winter. The fireplace internals looked very sound and there were no cracks. The damper operated freely and the glass doors and screen operated as specified. The hearth and mantles were outside specified requirements. Again, I recommend to get cleaned by a licensed professional before using again and at the beginning of every winter season.
Fire safety for the home
Most home fires are preventable and this article provide 8 steps to follow to prevent fires. 1. Plan and practice fire escape, 2. Plan around abilities, 3. Use smoke alarms, 4. Give space heaters space, 5. Smoke outside, 6. Be kitchen wise - fire extinguisher, 7. Stop drop and roll, 8. Know emergency number. It provides more tips like get inspections, check smoke detectors, have fireplace cleaned, and many more not so obvious prevention suggestions. It then goes into more detail about kinds of smoke detectors.
Fireplace fuel
Fireplaces are made to burn one type of fuel. If you burn other mediums other than intended, you can get harmful vapors or the fireplace can be damaged. Only dry clean cut wood should be burned in a wood burning fireplace. Pallets, tree limbs and fire logs are also acceptable. One should never burn plywood, or other engineered wood, moldy or damp wood, dryer line, trash or drift wood - because of salt content. Only burn appropriate and approved fuel.
Pictured is a vent connected to a propane burning furnace. Inside the furnace was water. Much of the cover had been deteriorated from rust. What caught my attention was the sealant that surrounded the bottom of the venting. This was reported as a previous repair. I couldn’t say with certainty that the water in the furnace was from a leak in this venting, but the presence of water made me insist that the furnace be locked out and a professional HVAC technician be called.
The two articles are read for this course dealt with Asbestos and CO2 poisoning. One of the things that wasn’t mentioned in great deal was the possible presence of asbestos in an old fireplace or furnace. I wished the article showed more pictures of what asbestos lining looks like to help inspectors who are unaware spot potential hazard. CO2 detectors will be recommended by me for all areas of the home where it can accumulate.
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A small wood burning stove in a large room. It is placed on the hearth to far back. This places the stove pipe closer than 18 inches to the mantel. This could be corrected by simply moving the stove forward.
The articles “Kick-out Flashing” and “Chimney Inspection, Preventing Collapse” do go together. Kick out flashing if not installed, or installed incorrectly will allow water to enter the roof around the area where fasteners are used to attach metal strap to support the chimney. The resulting damage to the wood and corrosion of the fastener may lead to the strap failing leaving the chimney unsupported and increase the possibility of collapse.
The photo above shows the top of the chimney/crown has been damaged. Weathering and cracking have occurred making the chimney unsafe. I would recommend the chimney be inspected by a certified chimney contractor.
My first reading was on chimney inspection and preventing collapse. I never really thought about the dangers that a chimney could pose. Especially having one of the heaviest parts of a home collapse. It’s essential to inspect the dexterity of all the components of the chimney including how it is attached to the house and the footing (if possible).
The second reading I did for this section was on fireplace fuel. I was under the impression that softwoods were a no-no in wood stoves. I thought they were too dirty to burn in the heater. I guess there is a use for the softwoods (to start a fire). In the reading it also says that pallet wood is okay to use for wood burning heaters.
This chimney cap installed with great crowning to shed water. However there should be a caulk break around the flew liner. The metal rain caps are made of the proper heat resistant metal stainless steel in this case. The rain caps also halve the proper screen openings.
The photo shown here is a chimney with failing stucco repair. You can see that the chimney cap is smaller than the chimney and that the stucco banding at the top protrudes out farther than the cap. This banding and failed stucco surface appear to have been added over the original chimney surface making the chimney larger than the cap and creating a ledge for water to penetrate the surface.
I am just finishing up the Fireplace, Stove, and Chimney course and the required reading along with it. I read the articles entitled Fireplace Fuels and Fire Safety For The Home. Both articles referenced material from this course and helped to reinforce the course material.
I have read two articles the first being carbon monoxide poising and detectors. Carbon monoxide is a poison that can be emitted from a number of fuel burning appliances and can be deadly. Home owners should be installed in the home to prevent such a disaster.
The second article is Ceiling fan inspection. The ceiling fan should be checked for stability. A loose fan should have the box braced while a wobbly fan can have the blades adjusted. The height off the floor should be checked and the should be no less than 7’ of between the floor and fan. Finally indoor fans should not be used outdoors.
These are two pictures of my brothers fireplace in Pittsburgh PA. The doors are made of glass on the stove in which they keep open when a fire is made. The chimney is cleaned and inspected by a professional every year before being used. The Mantle is more then 6" away from the fireplace. The flew was operational and easy to get too. Outside of the chimney there is no cracks in the masonary.
This photo is from an inspection of a wood-burning fireplace with a gas starter. The rear wall of the hearth has cracks in the masonry. The cracks are wide enough to slide a nickel into. The recommendation is to have a certified chimney profession perform further evaluation.
Here are my article responses:
Chimney Inspection: Preventing Collapse
Chimney collapses can occur for several reasons, including faulty and failing chimney foundations, poor maintenance, and acts of nature such as tornadoes, hurricanes, high-winds, and earthquakes. An inspector should assess the structural integrity of a chimney by looking for defects in mortar and bricks, insufficient support, mechanical damage, visible tilt and gaps, damaged and/or deteriorating footings and foundations.
Efflorescence for Inspectors
Efflorescence is the presence of white chalky powder located on the surface of a concrete or brick wall. Efflorescence is formed as water is wicked through the pores of concrete and/or brick (know as the capillary effect). Mineral deposits (salt, etc) are left behind as water evaporates from the face of concrete or brick. Efflorescence could be viewed as a cosmetic issue for some, but it can also indicate a more serious issue with water intrusion. The capillary effect can lead to osmotic pressure, which can severely damage masonry which could include spalling.
This is a picture of a chimney of a home I inspected. This was from a home that was about 25 years old. So the stone hearth was in good condition for a home of its age. There were no obvious defects of cracking in the lining of the fireplace or in the hearth. The only concern I had was that there was not 16 inches of hearth clearance in the front of the chimney hearth. This is an older home, but I would advise my client of the fire risks when opening the fireplace screen.
The first article I read was titled “Factory-Built Fireplaces”. It was a good article that gave an interesting history of when factory built fireplaces were invented and their components. It also reported the safety record and testing efforts put into making sure these fireplaces are safe. However, there was also the normal efforts of the home owner to make sure they are checked and cleaned yearly just as free standing fireplaces.
The second article I read was “Fire Extinguisher Maintenance and Inspection”, This article was helpful to me both as an inspector and in my personal life because we all need fire extinguisher at our homes, but knowing the right ones that put out the correct fires. This is obviously helpful to a homeowner and would be a extra benefit to your clients to be able to tell them the appropriate extinguisher. I learned myself of the type “D” class that are used for burning metals. I was aware of the other classes, but it was helpful to learn of this one so that I will be better trained and advised as an inspector.
Starting the course.