What do you do when there is no service disconnect and the total amps is not shown on one main breaker?
I am curious in how you guys handle this situation?
You should look at the size of the service entrance conductors and base your decision on that.
Thanks Greg.
Any other Opinions?
Here is another one.
Is 100 amps sufficient for load requirement if house is empty?
Mike, you seem to be operating under some misguided concepts about what a four point is for and how it is used by the insurance companies. The current occupancy has zero to do with determining the adequate size of the service.
My current form asks if the system is sufficient for the load requirement. It is a 1964 house and if they do not add additional stuff I believe it is sufficient if it had tons of stuff in the house with a lot of overloaded outlets I would say it was not sufficient. It is as it was built and it was sufficient at that time but if I was doing a full home inspection I would recommend upgrading to 200 amps. I even found my first alum branch conductors on this one.
These issues in this thread were 2 separate inspections.
The proper way to determine if it is sufficient is to perform a load calculation. I would ask the insurance company if they would like to pay you extra for doing one!
Load calculator
I have a load calculator in excel if you want it. I can e mail it to you.
Depending on what was there, it may be adequate. In those homes, they had gas ranges, dryers and heat. Central air was new, so as long as it was original, it is probably fine.
Mike,
I just posted a question in the Members Only forum that asked if anyone tested equipment as a standard part of the 4-pt inspection. I think the consensus is no. A new roof can leak, as can new plumbing. If the house is occupied (most insurance inspections are), then it’s safe to say that the air and electric work (maybe not well). My goal in a 4-pt inspection is to actually provide the insurance company with what they need in as little information as possible. I actually don’t even include the water heater on the report (I have the information in case it is needed later).
I only report what is present, the age, the visible condition (rusted dirt covered condensing unit, double taps, etc.), and the expected life based on average life expectantcies. It is simply to let the insurance company know what level of risk they are taking on.
I think I’ve attached a copy of what I use. Hope this helps.
I don’t perform load calculations as a home inspector. I base my decision on what the Florida Building Code says in regards to the minimum service required.
Thanks guys your input is appreciated and I will check out the load calculator when I get a chance.