One 6x6 wood post has been repaired/replaced and secured with metal gusset plates on all 4 sides, located approx. 6 inches off the ground and also close to the top of the post. Have any of you seen this type of repair?
I have . I believe it is fine.
It’s okay but still has the possibility of movement due to lack of nails at the splice. I would have used something like this on each corner:
It felt like it was very sturdy, I’ve just not seen this before. House was built in 2006, would like to know why they had to do this… we will never know
What was it holding up?
Good choice, Steve.
No clear on your question
What are the post for and what are they holding up, we can’t see what they are for.
I posted a picture below
Thank you for that.
Well I can say it is not right and it won’t go anywhere and everything above it is not right either but it might go somewhere.
Are you referring to the posts not holding up the joists correctly with the use of beams and are relying on shear force to hold up the joists? over-spanned joists say you? hmmm so what are some possible fixes? give them some credit! they added a few metal hangers
Yeah, I suppose that connection might stay together until it hits the ground. LOL
That part of the post (s) was replaced most likely because it was in contact with the ground and rotted; it will likely need to be replaced again in the near future…
No wood rot, this was replaced (cut) about 6 inches above the ground and again at the top of the post. All other post were in original install… so just this one was replaced for who knows why
Yes, for sure, and only screws at the rim…
Not much was correct about this deck
I totally agree.
Not a great way to do it. Folks routinely forget that this sort of post is essentially a vertical cantilever beam. With this type of splice, at a location near the footing, you want to treat two issues: the large moment, and the broken shear plane. You also need to take into account that the wood has its weakest tensile strength perpendicular to the grain. The optimal repair would have been a scarf joint and through-bolts. Next best would have been a square joint with a shear pin in the center, then moment plates and through-bolting. After that, you get what we see: basically an HRS type of sheet metal plate with nails (some of which are pulling out). It should also be noted this style of plate is designed for tension only, not moment, which makes it a poor choice for a splice located about a foot away from the member’s point of maximum moment.
I would have called it out in a heartbeat.
Thanks for the explanation, Darren. I enjoy expert/professional viewpoints such as yours being a P.E.