What do you think is going on with these deck support post? Are they 6X6 posts?
From here, it looks as if they carried the posts through as the guardrail posts… that’s where they made their mistake! In my area, the AHJ doesn’t allow for the post splicing that it seems they have done in the pic.
They look like 6x6 but what is with the joint at the bottom of the posts?
Those are TREX sleeves over a 4X4 Treated post.
Need cross bracing and is that eifs ? what’s the ledger look like ?
Not EIFS
Those look like 4X4’s to me and I would agree on adding some cross bracing.
That raised deck is high.
The post have no cross bracing.
A 45% angle of the same dimensional lumber.
2’ feet down and 2’ across on the post FOR ANTI SWAY.
In my neck of the woods, ledger boards cannot be fastened to brick veneer.
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What picture you looking at?
Well I’ll be darned! If I had taken the time to enlarge the picture I would have noticed it appears to be something other than brick veneer! EIFS? So much snow up here I guess I am snow blinded.
Sorry!
Nothing to be sorry for Mr. B.
Does anyone know if the 2’ for the cross bracing a minimum, or exact distance? I’m thinking minimum, and that if it were longer, it would be more secure, but not sure.
I think a diagonal brace across joists would help, even if not required. Because the 4x4 posts undersized. But perhaps like JJonas mentioned, a complete redo?
Thanks in advance,
I think the 24" may be better than what’s there.
Diagonal across joist bottoms wouldn’t do much, maybe prevent some twisting.
Cross bracing would be better.
Replacing the 4x4 posts with at least 6x6’s and making sure the ledger is attached correctly to the rim joist is best.
Just my opinion, though, having built a few decks.
Thanks Michael,
The diagonal would help prevent lateral shift - parallelogram
The few decks I’ve built have been under 4’ high
Based on the size of the bottom rail of the guard rail, I’d say they are 6x6. A quick check with a tape measure would be appropriate.
Post number #7 explains it perfectly.
Sorry Bob, I did not see your post.
Sorry to go off thread.
Question, has anyone else come to the MB to reply to a thread to find few posts yet once you are emailed by InterNACHI the thread has had a reply you see posts you had not seen before.
Thanks in advance.
The maximum unsupported 4x4 wood post length is a little over 14 feet. The L/d ratio should not exceed 50. (L) is the unbraced length in inches and (d) is the smallest width in inches. In this case its 3.5 inches. Calculating backwards 50x3.5= 175 inches or 14’-7". Now factor in the loading, the type of wood, any bow in the post, offset loads and the maximum unsupported post length gets shorter.
Now the shakiness or lateral movement of a deck is influenced by how the posts are connected at the top and bottom along with the size and length of the post and if the deck is free standing or attached to the house. Bracing for lateral movement can be designed, however many communities have developed their own requirements. NACHI’s diagram showing 2 foot would be a minimum IMO. The taller the deck the longer the bracing should be to be effective. This web link is one prescriptive or cookbook method produced by a city to circumvent the need for a custom engineering design. http://www.atlanticbeach-nc.com/Community%20Development/inspection%20permit%20applications/CoastalDecksPorches.pdf
As far as inspecting a deck during a normal home inspection, specifying bracing based on all the factors listed above would be way outside the SOP. I would typically, like most inspectors, would shift my weight around and based on by gut feeling would recommend someone install bracing if I felt it was unstable. Just be careful what you recommend, IMO most decks are poorly designed, poorly constructed and poorly maintained and will likely injure or kill someone if or when it fails.
Great post Randy
Much appreciated from this homie.