Carport Framing ?

Originally Posted By: Steven Brewster
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.



This is a 29’ x 29’ detached carport, trussed with 6" x 6" support columns. The whole structure is movable by pushing on the support columns. Gussets on each support column should remedy the instablilty. Any thoughts or comments. This carport has been through at least two hurricanes.



[ Image: http://www.nachi.org/bbsystem/usrimages/P/P1050844.JPG ]


Originally Posted By: bkelly2
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.



Don’t push on the collumns


Originally Posted By: dduffy
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.



Steven Brewster wrote:
This is a 29' x 29' detached carport, trussed with 6" x 6" support columns. The whole structure is movable by pushing on the support columns. Gussets on each support column should remedy the instablilty. Any thoughts or comments. This carport has been through at least two hurricanes.


Steven, what do you mean by the building has been through two hurricanes? (survived?) or (I can't believe its still standing?)

Has the foundation (concrete) the posts are planted in moved back and forth from the wind, or was the building just not built correctly from the start. Are the posts encased in concrete? How deep are they planted? Did you build it or know who built it?

What is the roof built with, engineered trusses or a rafter system?

Gussets would help stabilize it, but I doubt just adding them would solve the real problem, which would certainly be how far the posts are in the ground and is there enough concrete around them.


Originally Posted By: dduffy
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.



One more slight observation, how are the bricks seemingly not falling apart at the floor if you can move the posts back and forth?


Are the bricks tight to the posts? It looks like they are.


Originally Posted By: bkelly2
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.



Quote:
Recomend further evaluation by a structural engineer



Originally Posted By: dduffy
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.



An engineer is going to tell you to start at the foundation and work your way to the peak if it is not built correctly.


The same thing a contractor would do to repair it.

The difference is the contractor is not going to charge you to tell you how to fix it, he would be making the repairs minus about a grand to tell you what is wrong.


Originally Posted By: Steven Brewster
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.



Thanks for the input. The movement was slight but noticable. The roof construction was engineered trusses and I could not tell how the support columns were installed due to the brick side walls. When I mentioned hurricane, we are located approx. 200 miles from the coast but still got some pretty visious wind from them. The slab extends outside the brick walls so my bet, is the support columns are installed on top of the slab (hopefully secured) and the brick wall was constructed afterwards. I recommend evaluation/repair by a licensed contractor.


Originally Posted By: dduffy
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.



Steven Brewster wrote:
The slab extends outside the brick walls so my bet, is the support columns are installed on top of the slab (hopefully secured) and the brick wall was constructed afterwards. I recommend evaluation/repair by a licensed contractor.


Steven, if your guess is right, the building was constructed wrong. There are numerous different ways I would repair it after I found out how or if the posts are in concrete or not.

If the building is just sitting on a slab with straps and metal fasteners it is a wonder you had anything to inspect, being that close to the gulf or anywhere. It's like a big umbrella.


Originally Posted By: bkelly2
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.



I would still have an engineer look at it. The last time I paid for one it cost me $180.00 best money I could spend.


Originally Posted By: jnosworthy
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.



Other than finding out if the roof is sufficiently well attached to the tops of the columns, and if the column bottoms are sitting on, or pass through the slab into some decent anchorage, this is my thought: I don’t think gussets will add much in the way of resistance to bldg. sway movement. If the bldg. swaying becomes the concern, do what my neighbor did for his carport, add diagonal bracing on the long sides using turnbuckles and wire rope in the X pattern. Should stiffen that sail right up.


Originally Posted By: rbennett
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.



Is this to be a DIY project or just sort of a “want to know” thing?



Something tells me that this one was shakie the day it was built

Any boy that has built a little club house in the woods that the girls could not come to knows that you can not just put a roof on some sticks

Take a look at an old pole barn to get some ideas on how to correct the problem

How this is placed in relationship to the house and the brick wall is probably what has saved it.


Access to some computer software from your local collage and maybe some of the students would be a fun project.


Sure would like to see the building permit and meet the person that approved the plans on that one

I would call an old farmer

rlb


Originally Posted By: dduffy
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.



bkelly2 wrote:
I would still have an engineer look at it. The last time I paid for one it cost me $180.00 best money I could spend.


An engineer might tell you what is wrong for 180.00, but they will not put the engineered repair on paper for 180.00, so a contractor can follow what a engineer wants, and each engineer has different ideas regarding what repairs could be done on any building.

If you can push on the posts supporting the building and move it, obviously there is a problem at the base of the foundation supporting the posts. A well seasoned contractor would be able to repair an issue of this nature without ten pages of directions.


Originally Posted By: bking
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.



Nothing appears visible with that carport that requires an engineer to evaluate. If it moves, it may not be strong enough. What wind rating is required there? An engineer would probably recommend at least four cables be attached from the upper structure to a connector in a footer to prevent uplift, at each corner.


I talked with an engineer about a house recently and he stated that he can not see anything more than I could. He said to have the sheetrock and floor sheathing removed and then he would be glad to look at it.


Originally Posted By: dduffy
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.



bking wrote:

I talked with an engineer about a house recently and he stated that he can not see anything more than I could. He said to have the sheetrock and floor sheathing removed and then he would be glad to look at it.


Exactly, an engineer is not going to tell you anything unless he can see everything. So you have the cost of a contractor tearing the brick away, removing the ceiling, etc.

The engineer would leave after looking at what obviously is not visible until a contractor make everything visible, and charge you for telling you that, unless you know one personally.

The engineer would go back to his office, after everything is visible, design a repair in a few days, have you pay dearly for the repair method he thought would work, when in the mean time a seasoned contractor could have the building repaired.


Originally Posted By: bkelly2
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.



.


Originally Posted By: kshepard
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.



Unless those posts are wood 1x boxed around steel posts welded to embedded hardware, I don’t see much providing shear support at the front. It looks like maybe a small roof from the house ties into the back but the whole thing looks like it needs additional shear support. I would expect to see knee braces at least…


If it moves when you push it aditional bracing is required. Engineer or qualified contractor.


Originally Posted By: lewens
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.



Why don’t you just get down to it and add a diagonal brace at each corner on the long side using a 6x6 the proper length. Mitre the joints and bolt the things on with some hot dipped galvanized fasteners. If you come from the center out to the ends the thing will never move again. You don’t need an engineer, a little common sense will go a long way here. You also don’t need a general contractor, I doubt you would even need a permit as you are only strengthening the original structure.


Larry


Originally Posted By: ckratzer
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.



Quote:


Exactly ![icon_idea.gif](upload://6VKizmOm2U7YYmfXNtFW4XTwFVy.gif)


Originally Posted By: ckratzer
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.



oops icon_redface.gif


Yea, what you said Larry


Originally Posted By: Jay Moge
This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.



ckratzer wrote:
q
Quote:


Exactly ![icon_idea.gif](upload://6VKizmOm2U7YYmfXNtFW4XTwFVy.gif)


gazoontite.