Conventional framing or site-built?

Rafters! When I observe this type of situation. You have to describe what you see. That supports has been added at a later time. There is enough support from the dimensional lumber and gravity has won and started sagging. The span is now being supported. You have been hammered saying trusses. Take this constructively and move on. Keep monitoring this site and learn more. We have some very experienced people here who will comment and give you an honest opinion. So when you said trusses when they are rafters, you were nailed. If this gets out to the public you will not ever be hired again. If Ben Gromicko sees this he may admonish you and make you take his Attic and Structure lesson again. He has high standards for his people who belong in this organization.

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Those are not site built trusses, its very obvious they are professionally factory built engineered trusses

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Tell us why you think they are factory built trusses. back in the day it was common to build trusses on site, you would build a jig on the completed floor structure, cut all the parts, the bottom cord, top cord, king post, webs, and 3/4’’ plywood gussets, and glue and nail them together, of course, the plywood gussets would be cut a lot nicer then what is in the pic that Robert posted.

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It appears to be conventionally framed roof…probably mid ‘60’s judging by the materials used. So it’s been there awhile…nevertheless…There is bracing but I would say it is not optimal and somewhat unconventional. Kinda looks like an afterthought on this home. Normally you would try to put the braces closer to the center of the span of the rafters if possible because that is where it will sag the most if the brace wasn’t there. Only a certain amount of sag is allowable and rafter will sag under it’s own weight over time if not braced properly. So it is somewhat based off load, spacing of rafters, species of wood and lumber depth. Most modern framers will add a brace in the middle once a 2x6 rafter when it approaches 12 foot in length and probably wouldn’t allow spacing between a support and a brace to exceed 10 foot if he could help it. Collar ties should be used at no more that 4’ intervals maxed. In them days the plans (if you had any) left that kind of stuff up to the framer but now days many architects will include a cross section of how they want it braced too.

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It was for me and my father, that is for sure.

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Being as new as You are to this Dan You are not expected to know everything :joy: :joy: :joy:

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I have to admit I have done it when I miscounted when ordering…

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How would you like to build a truss for this building? Curved outside and the interior was the same shape with a flat ceiling up at 20 +/-. My father passed away while we were framing the roof. 1973. Was a restaurant back when it was built for. Owner had seen this roof style in Canada.

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I wouldn’t want any part of that one Partner…

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Here too, Scott and Marcel…

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Wow thats crazy!

I forgot to mention, no architect or engineer required. LOL

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The extra braces are called purlins here in California, very common, especially with low sloped roofs where collar ties would be useless. I don’t see any trusses, it’s conventional framing, or like we used to say, stick-built.

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You are right to recommend that an engineer inspect it. That bracing is now transferring load down to structure that most likely was not designed to bear weight. The wall and it’s footing need to be reviewed to determine if it is sufficient for supporting the maximum potential amount of weight that might be transferred down (especially if any amount of snow load is a concern in the area). If snow load is a concern, then additional bracing may be required.

Additionally, I don’t see any baffles between any of the trusses leading down to soffit vents, and it actually looks like there might be no soffit vents at all? I suspect this attic is not breathing properly and there are also no roof vents. It appears the attic ventilation system is only reliant on the power attic fan at the end wall – which is the worst way to try to create air flow in an attic space. However, I do note that there seems to be no evidence of condensation or mold in the attic, so these might not be critical issues but should still be noted in my mind – albeit I am not a home inspector. The home owner should have a reputable general contractor review the attic for adequate venting.

There is no information in those photos to justify calling an SE… total overkill without doing some basic ‘due diligence’ first.
Are you going to pay the SE fee when he/she says there is nothing of concern?!

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The home inspector can do that. Many older homes only have Gable vents. Thermostat controlled fans are typical and aid in cross ventilation.

Without evidence of moisture issues, the system is performing though not energy efficient.

If I were to make a comment to my client, it would be based on energy loss and a passive system is preferred.

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Respectfully, I disagree. Structure has been altered, the minute the bracing was added. As soon as structure has been altered, the only one who can officially determine if the existing structure can support the new transference of weight load is a structural engineer, and for legal reasons should be stated as such in a home inspection report. To see structure altered and not make a recommendation to have a proper professional review/certify it, would be irresponsible in my opinion.

From a renovator’s point of view, the span is not that vast and I suspect this home is in an area where accumulation of snow on the roof is not a concern. I am going to “assume” that there is some type of wall or other support structure immediately below where the braces have been placed, so even if that wall is not designed for load bearing, and even if it is just on a concrete foundation and not a proper footing, I believe it would all be just fine as my gut instinct tells me the load transfer would be minimal.

So, allow me to open the door into the mind of the home inspector. To recommend a contractor is to serve one purpose; to transfer the liability from the home inspector to the client.

The simple statement “Recommend repair (or further evaluation etc.) by a qualified contractor” accomplishes just that. It is now up to the client to “qualify” the next person in line.

And to your final point, most good carpenters or general contractors do not need an SE to make a basic framing evaluation. If the job is too complex, then the contractor can then elevate the issue. Now, had this been an engineered roof structure…sure…bring in the SE’s.

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