Damaged garage door during testing

your point is

Good point. Best just to stay away from it altogether. I see it kinda like testing the over-limit switch on a furnace. If everything works, great. But if it doesn’t, something may get damaged.

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My interpretation, the SOP does not say to perform a pressure check. That was my point :slight_smile:
(your state may have a different SOP)

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And along those lines…

Is anybody researching the compatibility of the Opener to the Door quality? Do the door manufacturers limit the HP motor to be used with a given rated door?

Many openers I see are typically 1/2 hp… but now they are installing up to 2.0 hp for residential applications. Seems like a recipe for damage if they cheap out on the door to save a few bucks, but want the higher hp to combat the snow/ice we contend with here in Minnesota!!

I have never researched the compatibility, but as you know, those of us in cold climates are wise to make sure the door isn’t frozen down before testing. That is an easy way to damage the door and/or opener as well.

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I could imagine the door opening but remnants of the seal staying behind in ice :slight_smile:

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Correct. The InterNACHI SOP and most States, including mine, do not require us to to perform an automatic reverse test.
IMO Nachi should update their course and video and remove that

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Up in snow country, during a big snow storm, you often drive into the garage with snow packed all over the car. Since the garage is often warmer, or there’s salt mixed in with the snow/slush, it all starts melting. Most garages are pitched so runoff tends to drain out the door. Now all the melting snow/slush/water goes towards the door, where it meets the seal and now is blocked and can’t get out the door. It pools there against the seal and door, often freezing pretty solid over night when it gets much colder. In the morning, when you press the button to open the door, the operator tries to pull the door up, but the door is frozen down tight…and something has to eventually give. If you are lucky, the ice gives way and the door goes up, but often the opener gets damaged (striped gears or damage to the carriage) , or the door gets damaged (the arm that attaches from the movable carriage to the door gets damaged in some way, usually detaching itself from the door in a destructive manner.) It ruins your day real quick. After it happens to you once or twice, you learn to go kick the bottom of the door a couple times to make sure it isn’t frozen down.

Cory, like others have said, those of us that have had to pay for the damage have mostly decided not to perform that test anymore. There’s no reliable way to do it without risk of damage (that the inspector is usually liable for.) Insurance pays for it if it is costly (i.e. over your deductible), otherwise it comes out of your pocket.

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There is MUCH to observe with vehicle doors BEFORE actually operating them. Check with DASMA for a 10 step procedure. Then, do not do their last step - placing a piece of 2"X4" to check auto-return when encountering pressure/resistance while closing. (The overhead garage door mechanic has the replacement parts if this fails). I use an egg carton - it is crushable, or simply my fingers as the door comes down. I DO NOT hold on “for dear life” when doing this - I attempt to “simulate” the resistance of a “little one” who has succeeded in avoiding the beam of light from the floor level sensors. I did check myself one time a found that to be about 7 pounds of resistance.

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TDS167-Sectional-Garage-Door-Electric-Operator-Checklist-for-Home-Inspectors-and-Consumers.pdf (dasma.com)