Does a Dishwasher require a Air Gap?

Absolutely required in CA. There was talk that it would be phased out in the new code cycle, but it remains - without question.

2010 California Plumbing Code;

807.4 No domestic dishwashing machine shall be directly connected to a drainage system or food waste disposer without the use of an approved dishwasher airgap fitting on the discharge side of the dishwashing machine. Listed airgaps shall be installed with the flood-level (FL) marking at or above the flood level of the sink or drainboard, whichever is higher.

Thanks everybody for the feedback

Loop or Air Gap is ok here.

This picture you supplied Robert is not correct.

Good catch.
It appears this is supplied by Home Gauge .Hmmmm.:slight_smile:

Please explain.

It is a tad rudimentary for a start. And it the piping does not rise up high enough.

I received the INACHI defect library a while back as a prize, i need to have a look at it. I would like to start including some Drawings in my reports.

From Joe’s post

That loop is never used as in the graphic.
The purpose of the high loop is to go up all the way to the bottom of the counter top.
There is no actual curly Q.Water seeks its own level and as Brian said it is to low.

Thanks, just wanted to hear your take on it. I’ve questioned that graphic myself, also have HG, and never used it.

It appears that we are confusing an air gap with waste water venting .
An air gap is used at the end of fresh water supply or the potable water supply to prevent siphoning back . Such as at the end of your tap to sink . At least I thought it used to mean that . But they are two separate issues . :smiley:

I beg to differ. The fitting that is required (in CA) is a “listed airgap fitting.”

“Air gaps” are required in both supply and drainage systems.

Air gaps are required it is true but often not used.
A high loop at least offers protection from when the sink backs up.

Allan I believe you are refering to backflow preventer or a vacuum breaker.

I recommend installing an air gap fixture or having the drain line in a ‘high loop’ configuration attached to the underside of the countertop. Many newer washers have a high loop feature already configured on the back of the machine, however I still make the recommendation.

You made a valid point Jeffrey . A dishwasher is a little different situation . The water enters the tub at the bottom and the drain is of course at the bottom . The only real air gap in this situation is when the tub is pumped empty , the tub being the air gap . You still after pump out have waste water in the pump and hose below the waste water drain line . It would make sense to have a check valve to prevent any drain back to the dishwasher tub . Though it is no a requirement in our area . There is also no requirement for a vent system in this area .

Some manu’s (so I’m told) have prevention built in… likely due to the above confusion :), as mentioned, here in CA if it doesn’t have an air gap, it’s wrong.

These fittings are cute, I think I’ve yet to find someone that used a fitting like this with and air gap.

tailpiece-dw-connector.jpg

That’s a very helpful diagram. Do you have a diagram that shows a loop in cases where no countertop air gap is visible?

Is this what your looking for?

dishwasherhighloop.jpg

Depends upon the jurisdiction. When I was in Utah, high loop was acceptable. Here in California they want the countertop airgap. That extra hole in the sink is a great place for the ro faucet.

One person actually got it right…bravo :mrgreen:

I always include this diagram in my report if one is not installed

20---DISHWASHER-DRAIN.jpg