Stand alone dishwasher; airgap/high loop needed?

I do not currently have a dishwasher. I am doing a down to the stud remodel of my 1st floor bathroom which shares a common wall with my kitchen. I would tap into a 2" drain in the basement that also services the kitchen sink. The kitchen sink is about 8’-10’ from where I would drain the dishwasher; and the dishwasher is closer to the main vent, being about 2’ from it. There there are no other drains going into this drain. I want to place the dishwasher on the common wall but am confused as to how exactly I need to do it. I have been reading about the absolute need for a high low/ or airgap to prevent siphoning. I don’t see this as a problem given the distance to the sink, and I really don’t want to use the high low or air gap as then I would need to leave a service entrance for them. I have read some dishwashers have built in air gaps or backflow preventers negating this. What are your thoughts as how to proceed?

Follow the manufactures instructions for installation, Dishwasher may go into any drain line with proper fitting Siphoning has to do with dishwasher line draining itself and nothing to do with distance to another drain. Improper kitchen sink drains with s trap will do same thing.

I see. My biggest concern is that I want to put the drain into a wall that I don’t want to leave an access for. I can’t put an air gap in a closed wall, correct?

Some codes are more restrictive than others. Without knowing what plumbing codes are in effect in your specific area, educated directions are difficult to give. Air gaps are required in some areas whether the dishwasher has a built in hi-loop or not.

You are exactly the type of person that keeps home inspectors in business. You want to install things the way you want to install them, and the directions or codes be damned. There is a right way and a wrong way. So far, the way you “want” or “don’t want” to do things is in conflict with a professional and proper installation. You could have 95% of the inspectors on this message board tell you the same thing and you will still make up your own mind and do it the way you want.

Not exactly. That’s the reason I went thru all the hoopla to subscribe to this board in the first place. I could have put it in over two weeks prior. I’m just curious I guess. I can’t be the only person on the planet to ever put a dishwasher away from a sink am? Secondly, codes or not I do understand that industry does not spend money on R&D and implement it into a product. I am referencing an internal backlflow valve or air gap in a unit. Why do it then? Cause it’s cheaper to make it that way? I doubt it or they would have made them that
Way from the start. What’s the reasoning and science behind that design then. I’m not an inspector, but I am curious. I would like to do it right but I just don’t understand what “right” is here. BTW, I live in NW OHIO, Wood County to be exact if it helps.

I see it every so often. If the dishwasher is too far from the sink it gets its own drain with an S trap vented to local code requirements, rather expensive when paying plumber wages I suspect, which is probably why you don’t see it very often.

From your Ohio Administrative Code.

802.1.6 Domestic dishwashing machines. Domestic dishwashing machines shall discharge indirectly through an air gap or air break into a standpipe or waste receptor in accordance with Section 802.2, or discharge into a wye-branch fitting on the tailpiece of the kitchen sink or the dishwasher connection of a food waste grinder. The waste line of a domestic dishwashing machine discharging into a kitchen sink tailpiece or food waste grinder shall connect to a deck-mounted air gap or the waste line shall rise and be securely fastened to the underside of the sink rim or counter.

Thank you for your response. So it sounds to me like there is absolutely no way for me to place the plumbing into a closed wall, bottom line?

How far away from an exterior wall will you be putting the dishwasher?

You cannot make the hose connection inside a sheetrock wall. You will need to install a standpipe and trap. The standpipe and trap may be concealed inside the wall (the trap may not use slip joints if you do) with a 45 elbow to bring just the inlet outside of the sheetrock. The assembly will require proper venting and a cleanout if the trap is concealed and non-serviceable type.

You will need to be mindfull of venting requirements and be aware that you cannot tie your drain into a dry vent.

2.5’- 3’