Chris the only test approved for a GFCI recepticle is the test button on the recepticle.
I suppose the Sparky was thinking along the lines of the tester causing a problem some how which is crazy.
Of course you would still whish to use the three light test or (sure test)
The average person in Chicago is video taped at least twenty times a day Mike , so nothing suprises me.
With the goofballs in Cal wanting to remote control your private property why should I think you are joking.
By the way you have a small crumb hanging at the corner of your mouth.
Oh never mind it just fell.
Our Home Depots are full of out of work electricians, plumbers, etc.!
I use the test button on my little plug in tester, but not at the GFCI itself. I don’t know another way to test the downstream receptacles to see if they are GFCI protected.
(Chris Duphily, Level II Infrared Thermographer #8355)
If that was the case then testing outdoor/kitchen receptacles that are protected down stream of a GFCI would also “void the warranty”. Quite a few sparkies are installing 1 GFCI to protect 2-4 receptacles downstream.
If a GFCI receptacle is present I (usually) use the test button on that particular receptacle. If I see a non-GFCI receptacle I’m hitting the button on my tester. As Bob said … “it’s like popping bubble wrap” sometimes I just gotta pop it.
Try testing this way, take a volt meter and test between the small slot on the right side which is the hot leg and then to the screw holding the plate, if that screw is of metal, the GFCI will trip, I just tried that in my own bathroom.