I am an homeowner, sorry if asking stupid question, I have 1987 home with non drainable EIFS, so far there is not any signs of moisture, we did inspection when buying the house in 2021, everything was in range. Now I called local company to check and remedy mulch being right at the walls, he gave me 8K price and said, they would come out and cut bottom about 2 ft of EIFS and replace with drainable system, is it really possible to “upgrade” old system this way? is it worthy investment as a pre-cautions for any possible future or current issues. I figured if mulch is only issue I can simply do river stone about 10 inches wide to great gap between mulch and wall. thanks for advice!
You do not want your eifs in contact with the soil, mulch or rocks, drainable or not. I’m not going to weigh in on the cure, but I would get a couple more quotes. Why can’t they just cut it and seal the bottom just like hardcoat? That is a question I would ask because if you cut 2 feet up, you will have a long horizontal seam…yuk.
No it is not possible. With a home built in 1987, you have a first generation EIFS system and he EPS board on OSB or plywood, Polyiso board or Exterior gypsum sheathing is your substrate wall. It will not have a WRB(moisture barrier) and one can not be added without complete removal of the EIFS to the substrate. Then you start from scratch. You want a 6" clearance if that is atainable from the ground to the base of the EIFS. Remove the mulch and your problem is solved.
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Morning, Peter. Welcome to the InterNACHI community message board, an online forum where home inspectors and InterNACHI members can discuss various aspects of the home inspection industry as a platform for sharing knowledge.
To answer your question; “is it really possible to “upgrade” old system this way?” Not knowing what your EIFS, Exterior Insulation Finishing System is, I say no.
Can you repair a damaged system? Yes.
Stay with me now Peter. I tend to be long winded.
There are typically 2 types of EIFS systems. Barrier and Dranage.
Simply put: EIFS (Exterior Insulation and Finish Systems) can be either Barrier or Drainage systems.
A: Barrier EIFS (Exterior Insulation and Finish System) is a cladding system designed to prevent water from entering the wall assembly.
B: Drainage EIFS (Exterior Insulation and Finish Systems) are designed to manage moisture by incorporating a drainage plane that allows water to escape, preventing damage to the building envelope.
Both the above are AI generated.
As to your quandry. EIFS Clearance from grade.
EIFS (Exterior Insulation and Finish System) ground clearance requirements generally mandate “a minimum separation of the EIFS from the ground, typically 6" to 8" inches”, to prevent water damage and pest infestations.
You may be able to retain a licensed landscaper to remove the mulch and create a trench that allows 6" to 8" inches of clearance from the ground to the bottom of your Barrier EIFS.
As well, I recommend a certified home inspector with required equipment, infrared thermal imaging and moisture meters to scan the EIFS assembly for damage or moisture intrusion.
From what I gleaned, the technology for EIFS was transferred to the United States through a Rhode Island-based Dryvit Systems, Inc. introduced EIFS in 1969.
Dryvit Systems and EIFS (Exterior Insulation and Finish Systems) are not exactly the same, though they are closely related.
EIFS - A Brief History
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He told us in the first sentence.
aka barrier
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thanks for your reply, yes my thoughts exactly, I think no matter what, Mulch will need to be removed from there. He did mentioned, if they cut it, and do like traditional stucco it will be about 2" recessed, which will not look good, as some parts will be flat, some parts recessed, unless where is another way to do traditional stucco flat with EIFS.
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Hi Scott, thanks for your reply, much appreciated. yes, after reading more, I also wondered, he can not magically add WRB(moisture barrier) behind the whole EIFS. maybe on bottom part where he suggested to cut it? I do not know, anyways, my plan of action is to just remove mulch and add river rock, or gravel. right now, there is a line on the wall about 1ft from the ground, that line shows where foundation concrete wall starts and framing ends, but EIFS Styrofoam itself extends all the way down into mulch. Although frame is little higher, EIFS is not, If it goes into mulch. should I still remove so much to leave 6" gap between ending of EIFS and soil? or 6" before from ending of framing? I do not want to remove so much soil to cause water erosion on the foundation.
I have seen this. They will cut it out just blow the bottom plate (the line you mentioned). Then seal the exposed bottom edge. There will be a gap between the ground and the new bottom edge of the stucco…hopefully 8-6 inches from soil. It will look like this, though this has has too little clearance from the mulch.
Thanks for your reply, I plan to do it myself, take my time, should I apply landscaping fabric, if yes does not matter which one? I just want to make sure it let’s water in and does not erode foundation, as for 6-8", it seems little too deep, will not water just go that direction instead of away from the house? I was going to do about 10"-12" wide river rock or gravel, with fabric under it, and expose bottom part of EIFS about 2-3", which does not seem enough.
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Expose as much as you can without creating negative slope. We can’t see your issue but you are correct not to direct water towards the foundation.
Why do we want clearance?
- Subterranean termites love that stuff so you do not want to give them a concealed path.
- Moisture wicking. Which in turn will also attract termites and cause moisture damage.
Here are some photos of the house, mulch really looks worse with all the splashes on the wall. Previous owner had mulch on like this, for some reason I simply added more last year, but since doing some research I think this is very wrong. I thought, that line on the wall, was where EIFS was ending, but EIFS extensions all the way down, while that like is where foundation framing starts.
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I do not think adding the mulch made a difference, it is just more of the same. That is until you go above the top of your foundation, at that point water intrusion and damage is nearly guaranteed.
I would talk to a termite company.
so, do you think it should be “ok” even as is? I will definitely clear it out, but could it possibly cause any issues as it is right now?
That is not what I meant. Stucco in the ground is never great. But you need a few more perspectives from people that do this in your area everyday, not just the one guy who wants to charge you $8k. Termite companies are a good resource, they often do this type of work for the right reasons. What state are you in?
Yes, the EIFS needs to be raised/ cut and properly sealed to the foundation.
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He did???
Actually, no. The OP mentioned non drainage EIFS.
That’s it? No more to it than that 
Well, there is PB known as or “Polymer-Based.” A non-cementious finish coat. Then PM, or Polymer Modified called Type PM EIFS. A cementious finish coat. DRYVIT systems. Weatherlastic for cold temperatures. On and on.
Thanks, Peter.
The thing with Cedar or any other type of organic garden mulch top soil well eventually mix in. Over time, the fluffy mulch breaks down and soil mixes in that can will splash on the wall surface.
Just remove the mulch say for 24" inches and lay down a layer of geofabric. The thicker the better. This way weeds will not infill the area.
As for the EIFS. EIFS panels often require back-wrapping. The bottom of the panel looks damaged, not swollen. Not bad after 42 years.
thanks for your reply, that area that looks damaged in the photo, previous owner had stucco company come out and repaint the wall, they did not dig up mulch to repaint or repair whole area, they painted up until mulch, thus their paint terminates at random spots and looks like flakes.
yes will do, I called two companies so far, one that repaired and repainted it 3 years ago, he said it is fine, just remove mulch. They did not send anyone. another company sent someone he said 8K, I guess I will call one more company to get an idea and just DIY river stone barrier, wash off mulch, apply termite treatment.
River rock will not help if the stucco is embedded in the rock. What are the risks? Moisture wicking and termites. I recommended a termite company for several reasons.
Google result below
Stucco can create an environment that’s attractive to termites, particularly when it extends below ground level. This can lead to hidden termite damage, making it difficult to detect and treat, says Ohana Termite and Pest Control. Stucco also reduces the effectiveness of termite treatments by shielding the foundation from termiticides. [1, 2]
Here’s why stucco can be a problem for termites: [3]
- Moisture Trapping: Stucco below ground can trap moisture, creating a humid environment that termites love. [3]
- Hidden Access: Termites can enter through cracks or spaces in the stucco, and their mud tunnels can be hidden from view. [1, 2]
- Reduced Treatment Effectiveness: The stucco layer can prevent termiticides from reaching the foundation and preventing termite activity. [1]
- Risk of Damage: By the time stucco termite damage is visible, the termites may have already caused significant structural damage. [1]
To address this, experts recommend: [1, 2]
- Trimming Stucco: Trimming stucco to a few inches above the soil line can help prevent termite access and improve treatment effectiveness. [1, 2]
- Sealing Gaps: Sealing cracks where stucco meets door and window frames is crucial to prevent termite entry. [2]
- Professional Inspection: Regular inspections by a pest control professional can help identify potential termite issues early. [4]
- Moisture Management: Ensuring proper drainage around the foundation and addressing any moisture problems can reduce termite attraction. [4]
This video explains the termite dangers associated with stucco and veneers: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G9l2TCs4vj8
Generative AI is experimental.
[1] Stucco Trimming and Removal - Ohana Termite and Pest Control
[2] https://www.magicpest.com/does-stucco-keep-termites-out/
[3] https://forum.nachi.org/t/stucco-below-grade-advice-and-comments/244719
[4] https://www.pctonline.com/article/stucco-remediation-mold-and-termites/
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