Oh sure bring up the hair thing…You know that is caused by damage from repeated contact with many headboards over an extended period of time…I sure wouldn’t make fun of You if you had such a medical condition:( …lol
Hey, they ragged me on my shirt.
Consider it an honor :mrgreen:
http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/23/23_33_13.gif http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/36/36_11_6.gif
http://www.smileycentral.com/sig.jsp?pc=ZSzeb112&pp=ZSman000
you have a point…
I`d be careful recommending epoxy-urethane injections for cracks in poured walls, talking about a 50% success rate at best.
-Applications and Limitations
http://www.wes.army.mil/REMR/pdf/cs/mr-3-9.pdf
…‘However,unless the crack is dormant (or the CAUSE of the cracking is removed,thereby making the crack dormant), it will probably recur,possibly somewhere else in the structure…’
These guys do injections,here`s what they say,kinda all over the place
http://www.wbay.com/Global/story.asp?S=1797522
Q) has crack, leaks, what ta do?
Their answer) you have 2 options, first is poly injection…gives a complete seal through entire crack,inside to out. BUT we have found that over time the urethane SHRINKS and the crack leaks again. (is this really an option since about 50% re-leak) One minute they say it gives a COMPLETE seal inside-out, then say it can leak again,sheesh.
And why dont they give HO the 'option' of exterior waterproofing, usually costs about $875-975. Cuz they dont do exterior work…shhhsh!
Back to their answer, they say 2nd option is their NEW breakthrough method which eliminates messy,unreliable epoxy and urethane injections.
Oh, now its messy and UNRELIABLE…come on.
Since this 2nd option is NEW and they haven`t actually tried it on many cracks/homes over 10-20 years, how the crap they KNOW it works every time. More crap.
Have been called many times after some had injections n still leaked,dug upn waterproofed. Have yet to see one injection that went THROUGH cracks to EXTERIOR, like they claim.
Thank you for the red rb it helps to keep me balanced.
What is the best way to seal a crack?
I just sent you a greenie to offset this unbalanced fill. 
Hi. James;
I am sure John will reply, but thought I would give you my opinion.
It basically depends if the crack in the foundation is Dormant or Active.
If it is dormant and very little seepage occurrs, that means the dampproofing or waterproofing membrane has been breached.
Dependant on the amount of hydrostatic pressures will be pronounced through the crack.
The only sure fix, is on the outside, and unfortunately, most do not want to face the music and bite the bullet.
I have seen and done in some instances, where a small crack can be stopped with a product known as WaterPlug or equivalent.
This is a bandaid like most other products. But if the crack is dormant, might last for quite awhile. If the crack is active, no matter what will be used inside will not last.
Exterior waterproofing systems they have today can bridge a lot of these cracks as long as it is not a structural failer in the concrete foundation where movement is eminent.
Epoxy injections do not last any much longer like John states.
I found this in an article earlier.
The U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development states in its Manual of Acceptable Practices for properties under consideration for FHA loan guaranties that “Pressure injected waterproofing has not demonstrated a satisfactory performance and is not acceptable under HUD standards.”
The best fix is at the exterior.
Hope this helps a little.
Marcel 
Apologize for soo long
When were called and asked to FIX a leaky due to crack(s),loose-cracked parging or gap-opening where service line enters a wall, i will not do/try anything other than exterior. Repeatedly witnessing HOs whove either hired a company or DIY that had injections done or had inside drain tile-baseboard system put in and didnt SOLVE the leak/problem.
Keeping water off the basement floor which inside systems will often do, does not mean the actual leak-problem was correctly diagnosed n then correctly repaired which led to mold/mildew/efflorescence/paint peeling on parts of wall and/or, crack widening or wall bowing in because somebody didnt want to take the time and determine the actual problem(s) correctly,instead opting to sell HO an inside system which is the only thing they do.
We could EASILY do injections and install Inside systems too. Would make LOTS more money and wouldnt have the physical problems,screwed up back etc from hand digging.Just cannot bring myself to sell an inside system or injection when weve seen the continued problems many Hos have had after installing this crap.I dont want any headaches,dont want to sell injections at a 50% success rate, wouldnt do em if it was a 90% success rate,10% still leaves lots of HO injections re-leaking. so we try hard to FIRST determine the real-cause then if needed, fix it from outside.
We KNOW most peoples problems originate,water FIRST enters,on the outside do to cracks and other openings below or above ground.30 years doing ONLY this, of eyeballing actual problems, of seeing water inside usually along wall-floor joint and seeing how it is getting in from outside, then fixing em and no more leak/problem. Other than basement back ups when flooding occurs, this is most HO`s problems.
So why would anyone recommend/sell any HO anything other than what is necessary to stop water from entering these openings, that is unless theyre incompetent and/or dont give a crap and only push/sell the only thing they do, inside systems.
Now, can a HO TRY to chisel out a crack in a poured wall as Marcel says, clean out all the loose shtt,wet it and then apply hydraulic cement? Sure! Sometimes if they V the crack out deep enough it CAN work,hold up for quite awhile. Had one homeowner earlier this year call, who used hyd cement in poured wall crack,it lasted around 20 years! lol Here it is http://www2.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=216144553/a=122238283_111847456/t_=122238283
Im not gonna charge a HO and attempt to try it, they can if they like and I tell them EXACTLY this. Ill e-mail em links about everything ive posted on other thread, the good,bad and ugly. Bring pics on every estimate to show them,try and inform em. Some listen and of course some do not.
Some who only do injections will talk some HOs into an injection they do NOT need, the crack is just an itty bitty lil shrinkage crack, does NOT at all penetrate through to outside, not even close.Yet, theyll blcchtt many into injections and then take credit that it hasnt leaked for 20 years!! Well duh, it wouldnt have leaked without the dumb shtt injection.
Here`s vertical hairline crack in poured wall, cost $850. http://www.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=228621104/a=122238283_111847456/t_=122238283
Explained to him that if HE wanted, he could TRY chiseling crack and applying hyd cement OR, he could call those who do injections.Or i offered to talk him through digging it himself with buddies,have and will do this for anyone. If ya look, the grade is sloped away,see last 2 pics.
Have shown many,many homeowners that their ONLY problem was open mortar joint(s) above grade or,openings around basements windows etc. Showed them by running a water-test w/hose. Have spent 1 hour or more for FREE on MANY homes and showed em where water was REALLY FIRST entering and, they saw it on inside along wall-floor joint.
Showed others they ONLY had a blockage UNDER the basement floor, they only needed expd-honest plumber to snake storm trap cleanout. I recommend John Scalzo around these parts. One day maybe hell post here and tell yas im not lying and further tell yas that many HOs have got screwed by many inside system co`s when they ONLY needed cleanout snaked.
Some other HOs ONLY needed to drill-create holes in sides of sump PIT WALL, just under thickness of bsmt floor. Water was building up under floor on longer,heavier rains and wasnt getting into the sump pit so it would RISE UP through floor cracks and possible up through wall-floor joint.They did NOT need ANY bcllltt Inside system.
Still a few other HO`s had water/condensation dripping from toilet bowl or water heater etc or, had lots of condensation occurring BEHIND drywall/paneling because someone put visqueen-vapor barrier right up against basement wall(s).
Just had one house that had leaky water line dripping onto floor, house was closed up,on market. So this dripping spread to other parts of floor AND w/no windows and doors opening,nobody living there, this caused more moisture in air/high humidity which then caused some mold on walls,dampness on walls etc.
In my experience, in my area, Perma-Seal does urethane injection, under pressure, and there is never another problem with the crack. I’ve seem hundreds and referred to Perma-Seal many times and never had a problem. They give a very good warranty.
Now, some other injection companies, not so much.
Just my experience.
Hi ya Mr D,
hey, i really dont have anything against permaseal or anyone else, as long as theyre determing the HOs actual problem which will lead em to the true remedy. In fact, theyre a long way from me.
but apparently, this homeowner had permaseal out and still has problem, thats what he states http://picasaweb.google.com/Synapse24/BasementRemodel/photo#5210001899882387010
http://picasaweb.google.com/Synapse24/BasementRemodel
looks like pics 7,8,9,10
if you zoom in on this pic, see crack up high in corner. Very likely there is an EXTERIOR crack at corner which runs below ground, would allow water to first enter into hollow-blocks, stay inside blocks as it falls through lower blocks and comes out at wall-floor joint. http://picasaweb.google.com/Synapse24/BasementRemodel/photo#5210002072071278114
Perma Seal in ILL, 22 customer complaints within last 36 months
http://chicago.bbb.org/WWWRoot/Report.aspx?site=46&bbb=0654&firm=6764
Not trying to knock the crap outta them but compare their BBB record to Capizzo for instance http://detroit.bbb.org/WWWRoot/Report.aspx?site=80&bbb=0332&firm=1839
I see perma-seal won 2003 BBB torch award, thats great, no problem.
Maybe, the BBB,the media and others should for ONCE recognize Capizzo,EOF-John McEwen etc
Just saying my experience with the local permaseal franchise. A couple of times, I even referred them for what I thought was a problem (BTW: In this area, permaseal actually has SEs on staff) and they came, checked and said it was OK. And they did not charge.
Around here, almost every foundation is poured concrete, with a few (and I mean a few, like less than one percent) cinder block. About 10% old brick or rubblestone foundations. Mostly concrete.
We live in a weird area. Near the lake, the soil is very sandy, with sand and loam on the north shore (towards Wisconsin). A little further in shore, like Skokie, where I live, it is totally expansive clay. Different areas have different problems.
There is a near west suburb, Oak Park (where Frank Wright lived) with older houses (1880-1910) and they were built right atop an underground stream (Western Chicago Ave.). They almost always have flagstone foundations and are almost always somewhat damp. The problem isn’t the dampness, usually, it’s that the new owners want to finish the basements. I advise against it, but about half go ahead ahd do so, then call me back and want me to find the source of the “flooding” (really, just minor seepage and damp).
Another big trend, in the northern suburbs (very affluant) is reallt deep basements. I have seen new construction houses with finished basements with the basement slab 15 - 20 feet below grade. You can play basketball in the basements. One actually had a Bball court in the basement. These range from 5,500 SF to 67,000 SF. One had a “back up” gas powered generator that was a big as a Winabago! Some have seepage problems and some don’t.
In the Chicago proper area, the problem, rarely, is water coming through the foundation of from under it. Almost always, in Chicago, it is the dang sewers backing up (from the floor drains). So much for the Deep Tunnel Project.
Different areas, different problems and different fixes.
That is right Will, and that is why by sharing all this information coming from all parts of the Country, we all learn some of the physics of Building Construction or Building Science, Al A Carte.
Fantastic place to learn.
Marcel 
Too true, Marcel.
How would you seal this? :mrgreen:
Do this.
http://static.flickr.com/39/78267854_a3c69b610e.jpg
Done right the second time around.
Marcel:)
heavy equipment…blocks, mortar…gravel…ect…ect…ect…
I’m not sure I’d do that when the rest of the floor joists look like this :shock: ;)… not to mention the wall where the fireplace is built into.
Well, Chris, if one can’t move it, fix it, repair it, modify it, improve it, leaves only one choice;
http://static.flickr.com/2051/2016906410_21168a2d90.jpg
That should work.
Marcel