General Topic: Essay Re System or Component Within Course
Specific Topic: Roof Components at Concave Slope Transitions
The roof slope transition should offer a visible flashing that assures resistance to water intrusion as water sheds from the upper slope plane. But it requires more than just this. The layers in order of installment for this transition, beginning with the layer closest to the sheathing are:
The required/area-code-designated width of ice barrier above and below the roof slope transition (roughly 36 width, installed 18 each side of slope transition),
Underlayment on the lower plane below the transition, which extends at least 4 above the transition,
Roofing covering material laid up to the roof slope transition,
Metal flashing material that overlaps the lower underlayment by at least 6 and extends above the transition (over the ice barrier) at least 6,
Underlayment on the upper plane above the transition, which extends at least 4 over the metal flashing,
Roofing covering material that begins on the upper slope plane, just an inch or so above the slope transition.
When installed properly, this six-course layering assures resistance to water intrusion as water sheds from the upper slope plane, onto the lower slope plane.
General Topic: Article Discussion Essay
Specific Article: Inspecting a Deck, Illustrated, by Nick Gromicko
After reading the referenced article, it occurred to me that, much like many other relatively-simple-appearing DIY projects, decks are highly suspect and should be approached from this perspective when conducting the deck-portion of the home inspection. A home owner is likely to apply far more attention to the aesthetic portions of his deck than to its vastly more important, structural aspects. Adding further to the alarming equation, contractors who are less skilled (and perhaps less motivated) may also deem the deck-building portion of the construction trade to be easy money, thus attracting less scrupulous contractors to this trade, further skewing the ration of poorly engineered decks to structurally-sound decks.
Attached is an image of a foundation that has separated at the corner due to an improperly constructed addition built on the side of the home. This crack is about an inch wide. It should be evaluated and repaired by a licensed structural engineer.
Gutter downspout splash-blocks and underground drainage pipes are an important part of a homes rainwater management system. A gutter drainage downspout that terminates too closely to the homes foundation wall can cause excess water buildup can displace earth around the foundation, causing settlement which can lead to significant damage to the home’s foundation.
The attached pic shows a leg of a shelf in a basement. The house is from the 1920’s. The shelf was built on the ground/gravel before the slab was poured. Moisture came up from below the slab over the years and rotted the bottom of the legs of the shelf system over time. During dismantle/removal of the shelf, the shelf was easily just pulled down due to all of the legs of the system being below the slab. The settling of the shelf over the last 100 years due to the rotting legs was up to 4 inches.
There are three common cement substitutes: Fly ash (a biproduct of burning coal); Slag (a biproduct from the steel and iron manufacturing process); Silica Fume. These are industry accepted recycled materials. However, most of these materials end up in landfills or waste piles and not utilized.
Stone foundation:
Structures requires foundation, this one is made from river stones and motar. field and river stones tend to be more rounded in shape. This stones are much harder than limestone and sandstone. When inspecting older homes or historical buildings is important to identify common stone foundation problems, missing mortar, stones always wet signs of moisture intrusion, bowing sections.
Log home sill log connection:
Finding the largest and straightest log set into the foundation is very important.
Drilled holes at either end of the sill log will slide the log down through the rebar if a pad foundation is used.
“Thrubolt system” instead of rebar it uses anchor bolts,rods, couplers, but and washers.
When building this deck, I can remember the building inspector asking me to rework the rebar inside the footing. He did so because , the current bar that was in the footing was to close to the edge of the tube form. Which may have telegraphed rust.
After reading about anti- scald. I’m on one hand impressed with simple technology used to regulate the flow of hot and cold water. As well as stabilize temperatures in a shower. For example while someone in another part of the house us the toilet.
Exterior cracking visible near foundation show no concern or threat to structure. Cracks appear to only be cosmetic possibly due to oil base paint being applied for cosmetic appearance. No further action is suggested other than apply a new coat of paint.
There are a number of things that can go wrong with a foundation. The majority occur before, during or shortly after a pour. But one of the factors that can lead to the failure of a foundation after the concrete has cured is movement beneath it, the swelling or settlement of the material supporting the foundation. The foundation drainage design is necessary to prevent water from saturating the material beneath a footer and a foundation.
This home has a slab-on-grade construction which is showing signs of water intrusion. The image provided shows spalling from the middle thickness of the slab to the top with rusted rebar showing. The slab is cracked below the spalled area and allows for further water intrusion and possibly continued failure of the slab. I would recommend consulting a structural engineer to examine the spalling and cracking.
In the article Detecting Corrosion in Concrete-Encased Steel, I learned that rebar encased in concrete is protected primarily by the high alkalinity of the Portland cement in which it is encased. In order to produce corrosion, there must be an avenue for air or CO2 to come into contact with the iron. This could be due to Alkali Aggregate Reaction or Alkali Silica Reaction for example.
I snatched this picture off line. This home seems to have some settlement. I can tell from the large Z cracks that either this structure was built without a footing or there were no footing underneath. The footing is definitely in disrepair.
There is such a thing as a foundation crack bible. I recently came across inspectapedia.com and notice that a crack wasn’t just a crack. There is meaning to different types of cracks and it all depends on the material that the home or foundation wall was built with and the location. Observing any crack within the foundation wall or within a home would be enough to recommend a structural engineer and report it.
Inspected exterior of home. Home is concrete/stucco. Noticed that the washer is releasing water close to the foundation. This can eventually cause foundation issues or problems. It is recommended that the drain for the washer be re-ran away form the home.
What we have here are several issues happening, one is the foundation has serious bowing in the front, second we have severe step cracking going on. This also posses a serious condition because the electrical service. As a home inspector I don’t think I would even feel safe entering the property without the house being shored up.
This structure posses a serious problem. One that could lead to one injury to anyone either in the home or close to the house when it decides to collapse, second the electrical overhead lines will also come down with the structure and possibly electrocute anyone in the area.
inspecting foundation walls and piers. no piers are used in this house. The brick facade is in good condition and shows no signs of cracking, spalling or bulging away from the house. some of the foundation can be seen inside of the garage and shows no signs of damage.
