lrollins
March 4, 2010, 12:43am
1
It seems to me that when a GFCI outlet seemingly “trips” when tested using it’s own button yet does not actually remove power, and will not trip at all using an external fault that it is indicative of “something” other than a bad GFCI in need of replacement. For the life of me I can not remember “what” if anything at all. Maybe i am just out in left field. What say you all.
mboyett
March 4, 2010, 12:57am
2
Line/Load reversed is the simple answer. The more complicated one is:
Line-load terminals. All GFCI receptacles have two sets of terminals having screws or wire leads. One set is typically identified as “LINE,” the other as “LOAD,”. Conductors from the branch circuit overcurrent device are intended to be connected to the “LINE” terminals, and conductors feeding other downstream receptacles or loads (if intended to be protected) are connected to the set of terminals marked “LOAD.”
Note that the receptacle outlets integral with the GFCI receptacle are on the load side of the current interrupting contacts and thus protected by the GFCI when properly wired. If the “LINE” conductors are connected to the “LOAD” terminals (essentially back-feeding the GFCI receptacle), then note that the integral receptacles are in the circuit before the current-interrupting contacts and are therefore not protected. If the GFCI is miswired and the “test” button is pushed, the 6mA differential current will still flow as before and the GFCI will trip, even though protection will not have been provided to the receptacles integral with the GFCI. Downstream receptacles, however, will be protected because they are on the protected side of the circuit-interrupting contacts. Therefore, it’s important that you follow manufacturer’s wiring instructions explicitly.
lrollins
March 4, 2010, 1:04am
3
Thank you so much! I had a feeling that was the indication but could not remember for sure. It’s hell getting old!