That misty thing will work as proclaimed.
Just don’t run it below 85 degrees F.
(I’m starting my own NACHI Old-Wives-Tale). In other words I am puling out an approximate temp. because what it actually is doesn’t matter at this point.
Water cooled devices should be controlled with refrigerant head pressure, not air flow.
When you lower the head pressure, the back pressure goes down.
Back pressure normally runs at 70 psig which is 40 degrees F. (not too far away from freezing).
Lower the head. The back goes below freezing and you have a frozen evaporator coil.
The metering device also requires a specific pressure differential to operate efficiently. As most residential metering devices are restrictors and do not change with load, if you do not have pressure, you starve the evaporator and pressure and temperature falls.
All equipment is designed for a maximum OA temperature for it’s zone (See ASHRAE for your design load temps). This thing should only be operated when it is at/above those design temps (that is when the equipment is undersized for conditions).