I would think that this wire that is feeding the hot water tank needs to have armor cable? This would help to prevent any damage to the wire, this tank is in the garage.
Thanks
Gary
I would write it up.
Also, if its in the garage it needs to be protected from vehicle impact.
…and a disconnect.
Jason
That same theory about vehicle impact, that would also be for the furnace?
Yep, check out IRC 1307.3.1
Also if the furnace is fuel burning it has to be raised above the floor at least 18".
Jason
Electric water heaters need raised 18" above the floor in garages too. The thermostat creates a tiny spark on closing.
Anyone flag that for electric water heat that cable might be undersized?
Looks like a 12/2 when I typcially run a 10/2.
tom
Is there a code reference for that?
Electric water heaters are never installed 18" above the garage floor here, just gas. (not that I ever recall seeing)
Besides the electrical components are at least 18" up the side of the tank, maybe even more. Unlike a gas tank that has a burner and pilot at the bottom.
Agreed on the 12-2 cable…wonder what the breaker is? …Usually these are 30 amp with 10-2 cable.
Some AHJ dont require protection on the cable. My area new homes are installed this way every day. Check with your AHJ or recommend it be improved for protection purposes.
I think that an NM cable whip to a water heater will last to a very old age and never be damaged. The issue of what is “subject to physical damage” is very… well, subjective. I most often do the water heater whips in MC cable, but you’d be hard pressed to find any code text or any anecdotal evidence of any water heater NM cable whips that are or have ever created a hazard. It can never be stated enough times… just because NM cable is exposed, does not necessarily mean that it’s exposed to physical damage.
You referenced 1307.3.1 in regards to providing impact protection to an electric water heater.
The way I read 1307.3.1 is that it is a **sub-paragraph **of 1307.3 titled “Elevation of ignition source”.
Would you consider an electric water heater to have an ignition source such that striking it with an automobile creates a specific fire hazard? How is striking an electric water heater any different from striking a central vacuum?
I would not write it up.
Good point, but in this case he has a gas furnace beside it - so it is all good.
Regardless, if it was my house and knowing my wife, I would put a guard in front of it as I can only afford to replace the water heater once every 10-15 years :):mrgreen:
Looks like the flex line on the left is crushed.
Mosy AHJ’s nowdays allow water heaters with the FVIR feature to be installed directly on the garage floor. The 18" rule is in the codebook and likely always will be because there are still older water heaters out there being installed in new homes. Best to check with your local AHJ, but that’s what the FVIR feature was designed for. I’m seeing about 50/50 on new homes still being put on 18" platforms. As word gets out, more and more contractors are opting to just set 'em on the floor.
As for impact barriers, they are there to protect the appliances, gas or electric does not matter.
Agreed on the 12-2 cable…wonder what the breaker is? …Usually these are 30 amp with 10-2 cable.
If this is a nominal 40 gal Imperial (48 gal US, 175 liter) tank with 3000 watt elements, then a 12-2 cable protected by a 20 amp breaker is proper. If it’s that size tank with 10-2 wire …OK, but still the breaker should be downsized to protect the tank wiring which is designed to carry the 12.5 amps that the 3000 watt elements draw!
10-2 wire with a 30 amp breaker is used for a nominal 60 gal Imperial (270 liters, 72 gal US) tank with 4500 watt elements in Canada.
Note: Some conversions are approximates but the wattages and liters are standard spec plate ratings here. Also, I don’t know what your standard electric hot water tank volumes and element sizes are but I have seen Rheem and other US brands sold here with similar to above ratings.