How do YOU identify AFCI receptacles?

[eunklesbay (Ethan Unklesbay)]

I’m based in Utah, and my code inspector wife says that AFCI’s are not required by code here.

So in all my practice inspections, I still don’t think I’ve seen a single AFCI breaker inside a panel, and I’ve yet to notice any receptacles that have “AFCI” stamped or engraved in the corner or anything.

Is there some other obvious sign of the presence of AFCI that I’m just overlooking, or am I not seeing them because we just don’t have them?

Thanks!

[ndegaris (Neil DeGaris, CMI KY License # 102167)]

It looks just like a GFCI breaker, but labeled AFCI or arc fault

Or receptacle Leviton AFTR2-GY 20 Amp 125V At Receptacle/Outlet — Lighting Supply

[bhoefer (Brian Hoefer)]

You are looking in the right places, you likely just do not see them locally because builders/remodelers are not required to install them. Local authorities do not have to adopt any national standards and perhaps your state standards are a bit behind national as well. I recommend that they be installed as a fire safety enhancement.

[eunklesbay (Ethan Unklesbay)]

Got it. I think I’m looking in the right places, but just not seeing them yet.
I did an image search and found this:
It says “arc fault” and “gnd fault”. I imagine this one serves both functions?

[dwigger (David Wigger, CMI, Retired)]

@eunklesbay

I imagine this one serves both functions?

That is correct. AFCI/GFCI combination breaker.

[ndegaris (Neil DeGaris, CMI KY License # 102167)]

Yes sir!!!

[eunklesbay (Ethan Unklesbay)]

Do you explain all of that in your reports as well? Something like:
“AFCI protection may or may not be required by building codes, but because it shuts off the power if electricity is arcing, it is an important fire prevention device”

[jjonas (Jeffrey Jonas)]

@eunklesbay

It says “arc fault” and “gnd fault”. I imagine this one serves both functions?

Those (Combo units) are the most common in my area.

[lmorrison (Larry Morrison, CMI)]

Your Code Inspector Wife is correct. Several Years ago the Utah legislature approved a provision that no longer required AFCI in Residencial. (although there are a few (nanny) local jurisdictions cities that still require them). (Utah does have there own code where IRC is “tweeked” here and there.) I still run across AFCI breakers in homes built probably between about 2000ish up till around 2016-18 when they were no longer required. homes built after that, not very often and I do not test trip them anymore… neither do i mention them in a report.

[kleonard (Kevin Leonard, CPI/CMI)]

They’ve been required here since I think 2000 when they started out being required for bedroom circuits. Now they cover most of the house.

I’m curious why Utah would remove this tech that is supposed to save lives.

I inspected this new panel a few days ago.

[mroberts21 (Mark Roberts)]

I see this the below all the time. Granted a lot of the older ones fail to trip, but the latest ones make it super simple. Anything built after about 2018 looks something like this.

[ryoung7 (ROBERT YOUNG, CMI)]

@eunklesbay

AFCI’s are not required by code here.

Yep. Yes. Correct.

[jmilby (Jim Milby)]

Just a side note, the multiple cables into the top of the panel through the large knockout is incorrect. The cables should be secured to the panel with cable clamps.

[jmilby (Jim Milby)]

There are AFCI receptacles. Look similar to a gfi receptacle.

[sfetty (Dave Fetty, CMI)]

@jmilby

Just a side note, the multiple cables into the top of the panel through the large knockout is incorrect. The cables should be secured to the panel with cable clamps.

Is there a limit as to how many cables can be installed per cable clamp? Do you have the NEC # by chance?

[mfellman (Matt Fellman)]

@eunklesbay

it is an important fire prevention device

First off, great job really digging in and understanding GFCI/AFCI… the non-alarmist in me might change “important” to “beneficial” but I’ll probably get some pushback on that. Just beware that buyers can and will freak out on words and you can often inform them and protect yourself from any liability with a “less is more” mentality.

[mroberts21 (Mark Roberts)]

@mfellman

buyers can and will freak out on words

For sure. “What did you mean when you said the AC is OLD?” I run into this frequently with Trane heat pumps. They are still installed, still running and are 27 years old. 20 degree AC delta-t, no clogs, no issues. Insurance down here wants them to be new. Now I don’t even mention that insurance might consider it old, let the insurance company drop that bomb. heh.

I will tell them that some Florida Insurance companies prefer everything 15 years old or newer. Not all companies will, so if you have an issue, try a different insurance company.

[sfetty (Dave Fetty, CMI)]

@sfetty

@jmilby

Just a side note, the multiple cables into the top of the panel through the large knockout is incorrect. The cables should be secured to the panel with cable clamps.

Is there a limit as to how many cables can be installed per cable clamp? Do you have the NEC # by chance?

I think I found it…

312.5 Cabinets, Cutout Boxes, and Meter Socket Enclosures

Conductors entering enclosures within the scope of this article shall be protected from abrasion and shall comply with 312.5(A) through (C).

[

(C) Cables](Chapter 3 Wiring Methods and Materials: Wiring Methods and Materials, Florida Electrical Code 2020 | UpCodes)

Where cable is used, each cable shall be secured to the cabinet, cutout box, or meter socket enclosure.

Exception No. 1: Cables with entirely nonmetallic sheaths shall be permitted to enter the top of a surface-mounted enclosure through one or more nonflexible raceways not less than 450 mm (18 in.) and not more than 3.0 m (10 ft) in length, provided all of the following conditions are met:

1. Each cable is fastened within 300 mm (12 in.), measured along the sheath, of the outer end of the raceway.
2. The raceway extends directly above the enclosure and does not penetrate a structural ceiling.
3. A fitting is provided on each end of the raceway to protect the cable(s) from abrasion and the fittings remain accessible after installation.
4. The raceway is sealed or plugged at the outer end using approved means so as to prevent access to the enclosure through the raceway.
5. The cable sheath is continuous through the raceway and extends into the enclosure beyond the fitting not less than 6 mm (1/4 in.).
6. The raceway is fastened at its outer end and at other points in accordance with the applicable article.
7. Where installed as conduit or tubing, the cable fill does not exceed the amount that would be permitted for complete conduit or tubing systems by Table 1 of Chapter 9 of this Code and all applicable notes thereto. Note 2 to the tables in Chapter 9 does not apply to this condition.

Informational Note: See Table 1 in Chapter 9, including Note 9, for allowable cable fill in circular raceways. See 310.15(C)(1) for required ampacity reductions for multiple cables installed in a common raceway.

Exception No. 2: Single conductors and multiconductor cables shall be permitted to enter enclosures in accordance with 392.46(A) or (B).

[bhoefer (Brian Hoefer)]

@eunklesbay

Do you explain all of that in your reports as well? Something like:
“AFCI protection may or may not be required by building codes, but because it shuts off the power if electricity is arcing, it is an important fire prevention device”

Yes, all of that, and more. My strongly-held belief is that it is our primary duty to inform.

[jmilby (Jim Milby)]

Dave, the clamps will be listed for the number and sizes of cables they can be used for. A typical 2 screw NM connector is typically good for 2 flat cables or one round cable. An SE connector is for one. Something like the black button NM connectors have similar listings as the 2 screw. The manufacturer website should have the information or on the packaging.

There is a new connector called the Wire Waffle that has individual clamps for multiple cables in a large KO.