I read the article on Ice Dams for this piece of the assignment.
Ice dams form when warm attic air melts the snow on the roof, and the water freezes over the eaves of the house. Ice and moisture can then back up under shingles and roofing material and leak into attics and walls. This can lead to rotting of structural members and roof decking, soaking insulation, reducing the R-value, damage to roofing materials, and other interior water damage.
Ice dam prevention can start by keeping the attic space cold. Measures to take to maintain the attic temperature include added insulation in the attic, sealing air leaks to the attic from the living spaces, and proper ventilation to name a few. Removing snow from the roof using a roof rake can also prevent the formation of ice dams. If ice dams do form, they are best removed using hot water steam and should not be removed with shovels, axes or picks to prevent damaging the roof covering materials.
Ice and water shield should be installed as a roofing underlayment in cold regions to minimize the potential damage from ice dams. The ice and water shield is installed along the eaves, and up the roof to 3 feet inside of the exterior wall, where ice dams are most likely to form.
Moisture can enter a home from leaks, indoor plumbing, air infiltration, seepage through walls and floors, and diffusion through the building materials. Moisture is one of the biggest concerns in homes because it can cause rotting structural components, mold, odors, corrosion, and erosion or expansion of fill under the foundation and surrounding the foundation walls.
Key areas that an inspector can detect moisture intrusion are in the attic (especially around roof penetrations), around visible plumbing in the basements, under and around sinks, tubs and toilets, basement walls and floors, around doors and windows, and around heating and cooling appliances and fittings.
Above is a photo of some water damage to a section of baseboard. It is at the interior side of an exterior wall. Upon inspection of the exterior I discovered a missing piece of kick out flashing at the roof to wall directly above this water intrusion. There was further evidence that water may be bypassing the roof step flashing. Someone had also applied caulking as a primary means of flashing at some point. I would recommend further evaluation by a roofer.
This area of soffit was not only improperly constructed, but it was not sealed
correctly with the appropriate materials.
It has caused wood rot from the exterior weather as well as interior moisture buildup
in the attic from diffusion of moisture through the improper materials.
Recommendation was made for a licensed general contractor to re-build to the standard of practice for this area of Florida.
Bathrooms can contribute large amounts of moisture within a structure and are best dealt with by the use of ‘spot ventilation’ such as exhaust fans. When installed correctly they can play a significant role by removing the warm, moist air to the exterior. They should always be ducted directly to the outside of the building either through a wall or through the roof using the shortest run as possible and limiting the amounts of bends. If they are incorrectly installed they can actually be more damaging to a structure than by not having them at all.
During an inspection the home inspector should check its operation, that it isn’t loaded with dust and that it is vented to the exterior.
Assignment #2 Basic Waterproofing For Basements
Basements are of particular concern when it comes to moisture intrusion. Moisture can enter the basement if the exterior surface around the perimeter of the house directs water toward the foundation. It is imperative that the surface be graded to redirect that water well away from the foundation and to extend downspouts away from the foundation. If the foundation has not been correctly waterproofed at the exterior side then, at the very least it should be addressed at the interior side of the foundation by filling any cracks followed bey the application of a waterproofing sealant such as sodium silicate.
The image above was taken in the master bedroom of a remodel i started about 2 weeks ago. The customer informed me that the carpet below the master bedroom window by the bathroom seemed to be getting wet every time it would rain… I pulled back the baseboard and noticed some damaged sheet rock and little bit of surface mold forming on a nearby wall. As i started removing the rock i noticed that the water damage was confined to the outer edge of the 2x4s, as I worked up higher i removed the window sill and found that the water was filling up the window sash because the weep holes were full of gunk and mud causing the the water to overfill the sash and soften the rock and starting the rotting process. I removed all damaged wood, damaged sheet rock and window and replaced with new materials.
For my writing assignment my photo shows a bathroom moisture issue. The only exhaust fan for the master bath is in the water closet. This area is a foot below the remaining bathroom ceiling. The water closet also has a privacy door. The moisture vapors rise from the shower along the upper ceiling, past the recessed light fixtures. The fan is not powerful enough to pull moisture from the large master bathroom into the small water closet area. I also noticed a different sound coming from the fan motor when it was turning off. I took a 1 ply tissue strip and held it to the ceiling fan and it had no force. A match test also showed the fan is not working like it should. The result of this moisture issue is the rust shown around the light fixture plate.
This is a downspout entry into an underground drainage system that removes watershed from the roof via eve and gable guttering. The downspout is a standard 2"x3" and enters 4" PVC Schedule 20 smooth-wall drain pipe and moved roughly 18 feet away from the house foundation. The PVC drain terminates at the surface via a pop-up discharge. Water is discharged into the trough of a swale that moves water around the hill-side home.
Moisture Intrusion by Nick Gromicko and Kenton Shepard, and Mastering Roof Inspections: Roof Drainage Systems, Part I by Kenton Shepard and Nick Gromicko.
Water sustains life, but in the wrong place and for too long, moisture can destroy homes. A properly constructed home involves careful planning to ensure the “skin” of the house is able to properly seal and repel liquid water and airborne vapor, and release moisture that gets absorbed into the home covering system in an intended and controlled manner. This covering is not limited to the roof and sides of a home, but also includes the portion of the house that extends below the ground level.
Guttering systems, although vital to water removal, are more often than not completely neglected. Many home owners are vaguely aware of the service they provide, but complacently assume that they’re doing their job. After all, they’re usually well out of reach, view, and mind. Considerable effort and risk is required to inspect the insides, so they don’t. I’ve known people who even had small trees growing in their gutters, and were completely unaware until the system failed. The roof inspection that a home inspector provides to the client is valuable with considerable return on investment…that is if the client takes appropriate action with the inspection report findings.
This is a picture of a leak at the gutter termination. There is no kick out flashing installed. Water appears to be leaking between the gutter end and the wood cladding. There is obvious water damage including some wood rot present. This may have been avoided with proper gutter flashing installed.
Article 1
I chose to write about Basic Waterproofing for Basements. Wet basements can affect the foundation and cause toxic mold and termite damage. One of the first tings and possibly the most important is to make sure rain water is running away from the foundation. Proper grading, ideally sloping away from the home by 10-15 feet, is crucial. Make sure all gutters are kept clean and downspouts are routed at least 10 feet from the building. Repair all cracks and holes in the basement walls and floor and consider applying sodium-silicate, which will penetrate the substrate up to 4 inches, prior to applying paint and other finishes.
Article 2
I chose to write about Blower Door Testing. As air passes through a structure it can greatly affect energy expense as well as air quality and occupant comfort. In the 1970’s blower doors were developed. The blower doors used today provide crucial information as part of an energy audit by measuring air flow. The three items involved in this are leaks, flow, and pressure. A tightly sealed home requires less air flow to generate a change in pressure and generally will be less than 1500 cfm at 50 pascals. Air flow above 4,000 is considered very drafty. Some of the most common places to find air leaks are recessed can lighting, utility chases, and holes for plumbing under bath tubs and showers.
Rust inspection & prevention; My rust issue around the bathroom light fixture appears to be basic corrosion due to oxygen being delivered to metal from water vapor. Once rust is formed its porous surface will trap additional liquids which will lead to further corrosion. The only metals that rust are iron and alloys that contain iron, such as steel. Other metals may become corroded but they do not technically rust. Interesting to note- neurotoxin that causes tetanus, which is associated with rust is the second deadliest. So get your shot because one gram of tetanospasim is 1.6 million times more potent than a bite from a king cobra.
Condensation inspection; One bathroom recessed light fixture by the shower has been exposed to condensation sweating. Thermal conductivity components made up of metal are usually the first places where condensation will appear. The fixed block glass wall in the bathroom also collects condensation. Since the exhaust fan cannot pull the moisture out of the master bath through the vent pipe, the humidity rises until the bathroom door is opened and the vapors flow into the master bedroom. Condensation settles on everything including the TV.
Inspecting for moisture intrusion in this basement lead me to find a leak in the sub pump drain pipe system. In the photo you can see the black pipe entering the white pipe. The water is dripping from the open ended white pipe. I found this by moving the insulation. I noticed a slight water stain on the floor joice prior to moving the insulation which lead me to inspecting further to determine if it was a active problem or possibly a issue that was already attended too.
A level of moisture in a building is needed however the level must be controlled to prevent overall damage and to prolong the structures life. Annual inspection of the buildings envelope is a key component to combatting moisture intrusion. Good quality roof systems will help prevent moisture intrusion but it takes more then just that. Some other factors include but are not limited to sight ground water run off, properly sealed windows and doors , properly exhausted moist air from the inside to outside. Moisture control needs to start at the beginning stages of construction and be followed throughout the entire structures process of being built. For existing homes changes can be made to remedy moisture intrusion problems once they are found. Leaving moisture problems unattended will lead to other issues such as decay of building materials and mold growth.
Ventilating moist air from a bathroom is extremely important to a buildings structure and components. Being sure the vent system is properly discarded to the outdoors is a key factor. Keeping the fan area clean of dust and particles is also important to the proper operation. Bathroom ventilating is also a good idea to rid the air of smells and pollutants. Non ventilated bathrooms can lead to damage structurally , cosmetically and also the growth of mold.
The image shows that the grading in the front yard is toward the house. This can cause possible moisture intrusion. It is recommended that the yard should be regraded or French drains be installed.
A Garage Inspection: Some defects to look for is improper alterations and improper bearing points. Look where trusses attach to wall for inadequate metal connector, fastners and improper fastner installation. Look carefully at connections for problems which may lead to structure issues.
Aluminum wiring: Between 1965 and 1973, single-stranded aluminum wiring was sometimes substituted for copper branch circuit wiring. After a decade of use inherent weaknesses were discovered in the metal. There are many quality issues that make it undesirable as an electrical conductor such as: higher electrical resistance, less ductile, galvanic corrosion, and oxidation.
Pictured above was taken in a residential home above the fireplace mantle. The wood has significant signs of moisture intrusion. I am not sure as to what is causing the moisture to get inside. From looking at the area it appears the water may be getting in from the roof line and moving down along the bricks that the paneling are covering. I would be recommending that a roofing contractor be called in to look at the flashing around the chimney.