Efflorescence on a basement wall is an indication that that water has passed through that wall. After the moisture has evaporated the salt deposits remain on the wall, efflorescence. Continued wicking or capillary action through the wall will deposit more and more salt on that wall. Eventually the capillary action will turn to osmotic pressure as nature seeks to dissolve the salt on the wall. The water rushing to dissolve the salt creates hydrostatic pressure on that wall, a pressure that can exceed the structural strength of the concrete. Efflorescence is your first clue to check for structural problems in a foundation.
The tub in the upstairs bathroom has an area where the grout is missing between the connection of the tub and tile. Inspection of the wall behind the tub and the floor below with a moisture meter does not show any elevated levels, and there are not any stains indicating previous leaks.
Although there are no current signs of damage, this condition creates a potential for water intrusion into the wall cavity which can cause significant damage. I recommend having this repaired by a licensed professional immediately.
Reading and writing assignment, Moisture meters for inspectors.
A moisture meter is designed to measure the moisture content of various building materials such as, roofing, siding, insulation, drywall, plaster, wood, tile and fiberglass. Elevated moisture levels in these materials can cause structural and safety issues such as, mold, rot and decay.
Pin type moisture meters can be used to measure moisture content at the materials surface or at incremental depths using probes. The meter measures the amount of moisture present based on its electrical conductivity, this is often regarded as a more repeatable and accurate measurement than search mode. This method can be used to measure moisture content on the surface of building materials such as stucco, drywall, plaster or wood.
Search mode or pin less mode, detects and measures the moisture content beneath the surface of the material. Meters in this mode emit electromagnetic waves that are affected by the presence of moisture. The meter detects changes in the characteristics of returned emissions and then uses this information to calculate moisture content.
The actual depth that these waves travel varies based on the materials properties and the devices settings, but they generally penetrate from 1/2" to 3/4" beneath the surface and are unaffected by surface moisture. Unlike pin type meters, this mode arrives at a relative value for moisture content that must be calibrated using an external equivalency table.
The meter will display moisture content as a scale of color coded lights that indicate whether the material is damp, dry or borderline, In other models the default setting can be used to approximate moisture content in most materials. Wagner meters take a three dimensional moisture average of wood, which decreases the likelihood that intermittent wet spots will be missed.
Search mode is commonly used for the following locations.
The sides and base of a tub or shower, any penetrations such as faucets, shower heads and soap dishes.
Peering behind a wall or floor covering such as vinyl or tile.
The presence of any metallic substance will alter the wave characteristics in ways similar to water and therefore give a false reading. If an inspector suspects that a meter is sensing metal he can monitor the readings as he moves the meter away from the elevated reading area in a straight line. the straight line of a copper wire or a metal pipe can usually be traced in this fashion.
In summary, moisture meters are capable of determining moisture levels in most building materials. They are useful tools to have during a home inspection because they calculate the properties of inaccessible locations without causing damage.
I studied the article on Moisture meters. Hadn’t considered purchasing a moisture meter that detects below the surface moisture but am now considering it depending on cost. Could be useful around dishwashers especially.
Things I want to talk about is safety and safety is one of the most important issues in an inspection and where ever I am, out and about in the real world.
The picture shown here is of a non protected cable that is well with in the 3’ area of a door or window.
The cable shown is of a service cable that is an SER cable and after the main disconnect and the outer sheathing is in very poor shape and frayed badly showing the conductors.
One of the things I noticed in this inspection is this home is a rental with a main service disconnect upstream on this cable ( to the right of the window here ) and this disconnect has no key on its padlock.
Renters have no way to reset the main breaker in this box if it trips, which I mentioned verbally to the renters and in the inspection report.
I inspected my hot water tank for any signs of wear, leaks, or moisture intrusion. I found a moderate amount of standing water around the base, as well as a substantial amount of corrosion around the intake/outlet pipes. I will be suggesting to the landlord to hire a plumber to get a closer look.
Protect Your Property from Water Damage
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**This article is about ways to prevent moisture intrusion in your home or business which could lead to rot, poor air quality, and maintenance costs. The first step is to identify any leaks and cracks in the building envelope. Leaks predominantly occur in windows and doors, roofs, foundations, plumbing, and HVAC. A home inspector should inspect all flashing and sealants, vents and chimney openings through the roof, the HVAC unit, the RH level in the house, moist areas like basements and expansion joints. If there has been damage and it was remediated, you should replace any finish materials. **
A recent home I inspected included a water tight balcony located above a deck. The decking material (similar to Duradeck) was wrapped up and over a curb at the front. Although this picture doesn’t show it very well, the material going over the curb was poorly attached to the substrate and not properly counter flashed. I noted this as a potential area of water intrusion and subsequent structural damage, and recommended that the issue be addressed at the earliest convenience.
The InterNACHI gallery of illustrations includes an image of correctly installed and labelled roof flashing. They call it headwall flashing, but we commonly refer to it as simply wall flashing. Just about every time I see it on a home, I find roofing nails driven right through the portion that is protecting the roof surface. Frequently the nail heads are rusted and starting to pop up, leaving an easy entry point for rain water or snow melt. Although the flashings in these locations are often somewhat protected by an overhang of some sort, I always take a picture and include it in my report with a recommendation to drive in and seal all exposed nails.
This is an inspection of the siding on a house. The siding is curling and exposing the layer behind the siding. There is also no flashing over the door. Caulking was used in an attempt to keep water intrusion. As you can see in the picture, the caulking has cracked and is no longer doing the job. In this situation caulking should not be used as the primary means of keeping water out. Flashing needs to be installed.
I researched an article on moisture intrusion. Moisture is one of the most destructive forces in a home. Wood decay, metal corrosion, high humidity, ice dams and mold growth to name a few. In all of these cases it is important to the health of the house and to the occupants to make sure moisture is controlled using standard practices of moisture control in all the components in the building envelope.
¾” thick rigid foam applied against a block wall with furring strips applied on top with a layer of drywall makes a very effective insulator. The ¾ airspace between the rigid foam and the drywall increases the effectiveness.
The typical air leakage diagram indicates that the area between the exterior wall and soffit should always be sealed.
Pic of Moisture stain in attic.
Using a moisture tester, the area measures 15 and at time of the inspection is not currently a moisture extrusion concern. The concern is that at one time there was moisture extrusion and resulting stain. Looking at the roof vent on the outside, there is evidence of new mastic / calking applied. Recommend to monitor and observe at first available event of next rain by observing from inside attic.
Library item report
Beam rotation. This is a defect that must be reported to the client. Diagnosing why it is moving is not required to report. Do report how support is reduced and not functioning as designed. Have a qualified person with inspect further and refigure / repair to proper support. The person to inspect further may best serve a solution who is certified as a structural engineer, more than a general contractor.
In this inspection, I noted this moisture stain under a kitchen cabinet. Also the cabinet floor is warping and the finish is pealing off. Kitchens are a common site of moisture intrusion.
My essay is on the moisture intrusion article. Colorado is an extremely wet climate. Most of the state is covered in snow up to 6-7 months. This can allow lots of water penetration to happen without notice until everything starts melting.
This is a heat exchanger that appeared to be functioning properly and showed no visual defects. However, there were signs of water penetration through the basement wall located approximately six feet from the heat exchanger. Upon removing the heat exchanger cover, there was extensive rusting indicating a significant amount of water penetrating the basement wall.
