Originally Posted By: dvalley This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Also note that when I see aluminum wiring in the Service Panel, I then inspect for pigtails behind the outlets. You may notice purple wire nuts, with the copper and aluminum wires attached to each other. If this is done properly, the aluminum wiring in the house has been corrected.
In my area, the entire house does not have to be rewired. An electrician needs to add copper wire pigtails to the aluminum wiring.
Originally Posted By: roconnor This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Dave … be careful, because those purple twist on connectors (Ideal #65 connectors) with CU pigtails are a questionable general repair method for “old technology” AL wire
I would red flag anything other than CU pigtails with the special Tyco/AMP "COPALUM" compression crimp connectors (per CPSC #516) for the older homes ... and I would note even the correct Ideal #65 twist-on for newer homes or the COPALUM connectors for any home, but not red flag it.
Also, be extremely careful checking out any outlets with AL wiring. It could be perfectly fine until you come along and disturb things. Read up on things and know what you are doing, or don?t touch it and bail to an electrician. Just my two nickels.
-- Robert O'Connor, PE
Eagle Engineering ?
Eagle Eye Inspections ?
NACHI Education Committee
I am absolutely amazed sometimes by how much thought goes into doing things wrong
Originally Posted By: roconnor This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
P.S. Dave … sorry about the last post … didn’t think anyone would be on the subject now, so I deleted and re-posted with the last paragraph, so the last post is out of order now. My Bad …
Red flag is a judgment call ... others may see the same things as a "concern" ...
I understand the Ideal connectors are UL Listed for the AL-CU pigtails on any type of AL wire, but that "old technology" wire can be very sticky and special installation procedures are recommended for that ... which may not have been done exactly right. Also, some electrical professionals (but not all) question any connection method other than the special COPALUM connectors for the "old technology" wire. But I understand it may be very difficult and expensive to find someone locally who is qualified to use the COPALUM equipment ... very specialized.
With the purple Ideal #65 twist-on connectors [for "old technology" 1960's to early 1970's AL wire] I would recommend an electrician be contacted to check them out and replace them as necessary, and that an insurance company be contacted to verify whatevers there is acceptable to them no matter what connectors were used ...
When I am wearing my HI hat, I think its only my job to observe and report, not evaluate and recommend specific repairs ...
-- Robert O'Connor, PE
Eagle Engineering ?
Eagle Eye Inspections ?
NACHI Education Committee
I am absolutely amazed sometimes by how much thought goes into doing things wrong
Originally Posted By: dvalley This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Robert,
Again…Thanks for the info.
That’s what this board is all about - Education.
I think I'll leave it up to the electricians next time to inspect the receptacles for proper corrections. After seeing the burnt connectors, I would hate to be the responsible one who caused this overheating.
Good call 
Originally Posted By: chorne This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Hi all,
In my experience, when the panel cover is removed
the service cable is visible where it enters the lugs.
The size of the cable does make a difference depending
on if it is copper or aluminum.
Originally Posted By: jmyers This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Carla,
You are partially correct. You are only observing part of the cable. The other part of that cable is not visible since it goes from the service entrance head to the meter base.
Originally Posted By: Dennis Bozek This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Here in Ohio the “loop” wire is always AL. The wires of the load side of the meter can be either AL or CU. One has to be careful for years ago there was a type of copper wire that was tinned and it can look like AL wire at a glance because of it’s silver tone. The easiest way to determine if wire is AL is to look for the De-Ox compound. However, I have found that not all electricians have coated AL wires with this compound, therefore, that can be misleading. I agree with Russ in that, if you cannot determine the type and/or the size of the wire coming in to the panel, it is best to recommend that such be indentified by a qualified electrician. Copper wire is a no brainer and anything from a 4 gauge on up is good for 100 amps. The NEC allows #4 CU wire for residential services even though the wire is only rated for 95 amps.
I do not typically install AL wire unless I have no choice. The reasons behind this is due to the issues with AL wire. I'd rather put the cost of CU wire into a job and be safe and secure with the install than not.
Also remember that wire used in "free air" has a higher ampacity than that wire in conduit.
If one cannot determine the wire size at the panel, the next best place would be the meter socket, however, if you have never removed a meter before...best get a sparky.
-- This information has been edited and reviewed for errors by your favorite resident sparky.
Here in Ohio the “loop” wire is always AL. The wires of the load side of the meter can be either AL or CU. One has to be careful for years ago there was a type of copper wire that was tinned and it can look like AL wire at a glance because of it’s silver tone. The easiest way to determine if wire is AL is to look for the De-Ox compound. However, I have found that not all electricians have coated AL wires with this compound, therefore, that can be misleading. I agree with Russ in that, if you cannot determine the type and/or the size of the wire coming in to the panel, it is best to recommend that such be indentified by a qualified electrician. Copper wire is a no brainer and anything from a 4 gauge on up is good for 100 amps. The NEC allows