"Infrared Thermography Inspection Training" video course

The wall bay is missing insulation as confirmed by the shape and the temperature difference since it is an exterior wall. Confirmed with moisture meter,wall is dry

I read the article on infrared reports. I learned to not over sell what IR can do, and to grade issues according to their immediate impact, especially safety issues such as overheating breakers.

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This image shows an attic with visible mold. The roof was in a very bad state. This mold could have come from water penetration through the bad roof. But without an infrared camera, it is difficult to tell where exactly is the moisture coming from. An thermal imaging camera would have been handy to inspect the living area for water and moisture damage.

Here is a photo of moisture behind a wall. I took the photo in the morning as the walls heated up but the water was still cool. There is no visible sign of dampness.

I like the article about thermal imaging. I never thought about what my reports would say about the limitations of the technology. It’s good to get some pointers of where to start and what to talk about.

These pictures illustrate the condition of a house with batten and board siding. In this SWFL climate every house that I inspect with some type of wood siding winds up with the same results.

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I read the article about wood decay. Living in South West Florida this is a topic that hits home with me as well as other inspectors that operate in this region. As explained in the article the most common causes I find here is where people put mulch right up against the wood siding that wicks up from the ground. Why anyone would choose wood siding in this region is beyond me.

These images were captured early in the day, it was quite cool and rained overnight. The temperature is about 22C outside and about 20C inside, not a huge difference. The sun begins to heat up the attic pretty quick and we can clearly see that there is a lack of proper insulation in the attic in both cases.

P.S. Please excuse the poor quality of these images, this site would not allow me to upload a good quality file, it insisted on a file no larger then 256k, this is extremely small in todays standards.

I just read your articles on carpeted bathrooms and carpet mold. I personally would never recommend putting carpet in a bathroom for obvious reasons of excessive moisture and its also a place where you will probably get more then your share of body dander and dead skin cells as you shed your dirty cloths to shower and or bath, its just the nature of the room we are talking about. I do however understand there are people who like a floor that is warmer to the touch. I also understand that there are elderly people who may be afraid of slipping and falling on a harder more slippery floor. I would suggest there are better solutions such as cork flooring, but be careful to choose one that is moisture resistant. If you do really want carpet then there are also many that are more suitable for this purpose, consult with someone who really knows what they are doing.

These ducts appear to have been in good condition at the time of this inspection. However, I learned in this course that infrared photography can help see that they may not be in as good of shape as they appear. Had I had a IR camera, I could have given the client more information than I did at this particular inspection.

I did an exterior inspection of all windows and doors. All the window seals looked good and all caulk was secure around doors and windows.
The front exterior door is metal and has a small hole from a previous door handle unit that was replaced, but never sealed properly. This is an infiltration point for hot and cold air into the interior of the house. This could be an intrusion point for moisture even though the door/entry way is under the front porch. Wind and moisture can do crazy things. RECOMMEND using a proper metal sealant to securely seal hole on both the exterior and interior side of door.

That concludes my visual inspection. Thanks for allowing me to share and I trust you have enjoyed, as I have, this Infrared Thermography Inspection Training Course for Home Inspectors.

Mike Flowers
Mike’s Home Inspection Services, Inc.
Americus, Georgia

The two articles I have read for the “Infrared Thermography Inspection Training” Course are “Green Strategies for Commercial Buildings” and “Elements of an Energy-Efficient House.”

“Green Strategies for Commercial Buildings”
This article points out at least 4 ways that commercial real estate can enjoy energy efficiency in the work place environment. The first is a new type of window film that does not darken the indoor environment like the older type of window film does. In fact, more than half of the sun’s energy is reflected away from the building by these newer types of window solar films, which increases indoor comfort significantly. Also, some newer films are capable of not only blocking light, but are able to produce energy because of the ultra-thin photovoltaic material components that actually generate electricity during the day.

The second way to help increase energy efficiency and indoor comfort is by using mineral wool insulation, which provides excellent thermal resistance, sound attenuation and offers flame resistance. The mineral wool is made of 75% recycled content which makes it a good choice for commercial usage.

Third way to help in energy efficiency is with ‘efficient lighting.’ This ranges from light-emitting diodes (LED’s) and compact fluorescent lighting (CFL) to other types such as light tubes, light shelves and clerestory windows.

The final way for energy efficiency the article brings out is to stop unnecessary leakage through the building envelope. This leakage can come by way of mail slots, electrical outlets, around pipes and wires as well as around window frames. Because InterNACHI inspectors who are trained in performing energy audits, there are some options for commercial businesses to help cut energy costs.

This is a good article that helps reinforce the principles of energy efficiency that we have been learning, studying and applying in our inspections.

“Elements of an Energy-Efficient House”
The article begins speaking to the great challenges that are faced when designing and building a house in regards to the element of being an energy-efficient house. The article states the belief at InterNACHI, of which I personally agree, “that any house style can be made to require relatively minimal amounts of energy to heat and cool, and to be comfortable.” The reason being is the fact of all the technological improvements in building components, construction, HVAC and many other new designs that can be integrated into the house structure to make it energy-efficient and comfortable.

The article speaks to the thermal envelope which includes wall & roof assemblies, insulation, air & vapor retarders, foundation and slab insulation, windows (which for the most part account for 25% energy loss), air sealing, controlled ventilation, heating and cooling requirements (which is critical in energy conservation).

The article ends with some information about some ways to begin the energy-efficiency process (or project). There must be site evaluations, climate considerations and solid planning of what ‘your’ energy-efficient house will look like.

Good article that significantly reinforces what we have been learning and studying in our courses.

Thanks for allowing me to share the articles.
Mike Flowers
Mike’s Home Inspection Services, Inc.
Americus, GA 31709

Well Buddy, the 3rd is the 1st.

The rest are jobs bills.

Focus your attention on cost recovery ratios.

Why does the DOE not rank air leakage top of the list (even if you pay attention, they tell you this)? Because they don’t have an industry willing to pad their pocket to “make it so”!

Air leakage is a 200% loss right off the top.
You loose 600 cfm, and you must replace 600 cfm. You loose coming and going…

Your air duct leaks 30% on a good day. How long does “yours” run throughout the year? Second is natural convection loss. How hot is your attic vs. indoors?

I just took the on line INachi thermal imaging course. I did it to see what it contained and it met my expectations.

Many years ago I took John McKenna’s course, flying from Virginia to Atlanta to take it. I found it beneficial then. This on line course was not only a reminder of that seminar, but reinforced the images and lessons that John presented years ago.

While I have been doing thermal imaging for many years, and have had formal training therein, it never hurts to return to basics and revisit the principles of anything. The goal of education is to learn how to think for oneself, no matter the field of endeavor.

Inspection assignment:

Skylight well thermography.

Skylights are always a potential water intrusion point. Using a thermal imaging camera combined with a contact moisture meter to detect any possible moisture was a great combination. The skylight well showed cooler areas around the framing, validation with the moisture meter showed that the areas were currently as dry as the remainder of the room. Pairing the digital picture, the infared picture and the detail of the moisture meter paints a great picture for the client of how the skylight was performing at the time of inspection.

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Reading and writing assignment:

Article #1

Thermal Imaging Reports

Great article, I really like the angle that we are using out inspection reports as the marketing tool. When you think of your report as your product it forces you to think about what information you are including and in what way you are explaining a situation to a client. The Do and Don’t section contains some great information about managing your clients expectations as they relate to the thermal imaging inspection and what it can and cannot do. Lastly, giving your client information about your findings and helping them plan out their repairs in priority is a great suggestion for any report.

Article #2

Moisture Intrusion

This article gives a great list of the main water intrusion points and sources. A good reminder of the things to look out for in each part of a home that may be the cause of excess moisture present. The health risks and subsequent damage to the building structure that can occur with any moisture intrusion cannot be emphasized enough. Any moisture intrusion must be handled before it causes additional health risks or building damage.

Here we have an improperly flashed door. The lack of flashing above this door frame will allow water intrusion into the building. As caulking is a temporary repair I suggest repair/replacement by a qualified contractor.

Article #1
I found the article regarding vinyl siding very interesting as an inspection I performed recently had defects in the siding. The current owners decided to use their gas grill very close to the vinyl siding and it melted. I was aware of the melting properties of vinyl but I was not aware that vinyl siding has been around since the 50’s or that the nailing strips should have a .5 inch gap between them.

Article #2
The nightlight safety article hits close to home as I have two children. It is amazing that some nightlights contain methylene chloride that is poisonous to even skin contact! Not to mention all the recalls of the products listed. It looks motion sensors are the safe alternative.

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This was a excellent house right on the water. Personally I love Ivy if I could Have Ivy, Trees, waterfalls and a shark tank i’d love it. However sometimes my ideas aren’t always the best. Unfortunately i’ll have to live in a zoo or have an actual tree house in the jungle. But as far as Peoria goes having Ivy on your house is not the best idea. I could see this ivy growing into the venting through the soffit vents leading into the attic, which just makes your house hotter, It was also growing into the roof which is also a bad Idea. It acts like a dam and then stopping water flow and wammo it’s raining in the house, or leaking into your kids room. So if you have a house like this call the pros have them remove it and put some rose bushes in or whatever your fancy is. All vegetation should be at least 12" away from the house and definitely give about 3’ of space in front and around the electrical box.

so my first thoughts when reading the forum are that i thought and it is implied that you will be able to use and advertise as a infared thermographer with the internatchi logo. Now i’m being told its just a primer? Why wouldnt you be transparent and say that Nick? After watching the 3 hour video? i would have jumped in another course if i knew thats what i had to do. so which is it?

I read an article on tools for the home inspector. one caught my eye and it looked like a battle vest. I have a tool bag that i use to carry my bigger tools in then i also use a tool belt with a small bag to carry my, flashlight, gfci tester which hooks on to the straps via a old cell phone holder. screwdriver, circuit tester, mask, water pressure holder, gloves, a telescopic tripod leg with inches on it that i can use for testing depth of insulation, probing, and testing smoke detectors, and of course my Samsung tablet. this way i can me hands free and comfortable.