If you have concerns, some slicing of the paper would be adequate. But removal would not be necessary.
Originally, he said the ducts were sealed not the registers. His original post and his subsequent suggest that the basement is conditioned.
Perhaps you read the posts but did not understand them…
If you are in a pissy and unhelping mood how about you go drink a six pack and stop posting.
I am still confused.
Why would insulation without a vapor barrier or slits in the insulation be a recommended fix. If the basement is finished shouldn’t it be properly conditioned? And if so, would it matter what kind of insulation or how its installed?
Actually the ducts that are sealed are for the registers for the finished areas of the basement.
Joe has a point as this is technically an unconditioned area.
It would be best to have the ducts extend to the registers. Now is the furnace sized for the added basement finishing?
75,000 BTU - 2002 90% furnace - 2500 sq. ft and not sure if the basement is included in the sq. ft. Not my job to determine if sized correctly but just curious.
You should see the nice job of finishing the water heater vent.
See pics, called out improper clearance to combustibles and who knows what lurks behind the finished box.
See additional pics.
The larger vent that is not visible is connected to the smaller vent in the finishing and I bet it is not right.
I am getting used to the pissing posts!!
It’s no problem. Conditioned air will never reach dewpoint between the insulation and the subfloor. A few slices like suggested will guarantee moisture levels are always equal above the insulation to that of the house, which I don’t believe would ever be a concern anyway.
I have seen installs like this in chronically damp crawlspaces and the paper is always moldy not the framing and subfloor above.
I’m not inclined to agree. There is a lot of radiant heat given off of ductwork. There are two opinions you could have about the drop ceiling, the first being it has a poor seal and air/moisture can equalize very easily(not get trapped) with the space below. The second would be that the drop ceiling is sealed well in which case moisture from the basement, if it were present, isn’t going to be entering the space above the ceiling. Just MHO.
Kraft paper is not a vapor barrier by itself. They made different types of kraft faced insulation but the only type that is considered a vapor barrier has an asphalt sealant that attaches the paper to ONE side of the fiberglass. It is very obvious when the paper is torn or cut. That side is installed towards the “warm in winter”.
In this instance, unless the vapor barrier classification was confirmed, it can’t be called an improper installation.
Also, there is technically no warm side in the winter. This isn’t significantly different than installing faced insulation on interior walls.