Is this a proper way to Ground an Electrical Panel

Would this be considered a proper grounding electrode ? I thought the water supply line had to be metal? DSCN4131

I believe you are correct Sam. My guess is the underground service line was replaced and the panel grounding was never corrected.


Yes, it does, if it hasn’t already been retrofitted with another method of grounding, ie. Rod(s).

The reason that the metal water pipe electrode is required to be supplemented by another electrode is incase the old metal pipe is changed to plastic. The interior metal piping system is still required to be bonded to the service.

How long has that been a required Standard? A couple of decades at most? From the looks of the posted pics, I would guess that home to be pre-70’s, maybe pre-50’s.

1 Like

I am curious how good that connection is with the teflon tape and rust.


That is an equipment bond I think. The bonding cable strands are not evenly distributed meaning that the cable will not be torqued evenly affecting the bonding properties.

A grounding electrode is a grounding horse of a different color.
What Are Some Different Types of Grounding Electrodes? Read on to meet the grounding electrodes of a different color.

I don’t have access to my old code books at the moment so going from memory the supplementation of the water pipe electrode probably started in the early 70’s. That seems like a strange location for a water main pipe.

1 Like

In my neck of the woods, pre-1950 residential had Armored cable EGC, Equipment Grounding Conductors.

In the OP’s image, the jacket throws me off. I think I have seen the OP’s subject in 1 home. I traced it back to be the equipment enclosure bond.

I can’t see that being the main water line. Too high.

Lets say for argument sake the is the EGC. The main water line for the building is PEX. Non conductive. The residences electrical system needs an Ufer or 2 grounding electrodes.

That is a mistake that you frequently make on this MB… assuming your Canada practices have any connection to the way things are commonly performed in the U.S., in this case Tennessee!!

So, you honestly think there is a ‘global’ standard for depths of water supply lines, and how said depths interact with various foundations?

Which is good enough for me, thanks. I’m not one of those inspectors that have need to know “The Code” of every item affecting a home. General questions only need general answers. :wink:

That is a mistake you frequently make on the MB. The MB and home inspections cover North American:-)

I concur and posted the same observation.
From what I understand from UP Code, the penetration opening requires a sleeve prior the main water line being installed. You think the concrete will cause thermal expansion abrasion on the PEX plumbing line? As sure as the sun rises.
As well, there is no bonding jumper to bond to the home’s copper plumbing pipes. The bond is to a small section of copper piping. ><12"

But National/State/Local Codes and Standard practices DO NOT!!

The frost line in Tennessee is only 12 inches.

1 Like

I looked it up, Bob.
Thanks for the note.

1 Like

That is a crazy map. You would think there would be more gradient. A jump from 6 to 36 and then doubled to 72. Crazy.


1 Like

… that you have any semblance of knowledge of what affects the micro-climates that dictate the differing temps zones. Look at South-central Montana thru Northwestern Wyoming. That certainly isn’t some map makers 'effing around just to screw with us!!

1 Like

Same with Alabama Mississippi.

Sure I do :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes: