Originally Posted By: rwills This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
One of the coolest tools I got when I started was a Raytek MT-4 Laser thermometer. I use it to check temperature variations in A/C systems and check for hot spots in the electric panel without touching a thing. Clients think it’s neat too. I got mine about 2 years ago on Ebay for about $79. I have recently seen the same one on Ebay for $59.
Originally Posted By: John Davco Jr. This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
BoB W,
I just picked up a MT4 on E-bay for $59. from braystools plus $7.00 shipping great tool. Total non contact therometer.Great for checking panel bus bar,high water temp,loose connections,thanks for the tip.
Originally Posted By: rwills This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Can anyone recommend a decent moisture meter (non-invasive) that’s not to very expensive. I’ve seen a few on some of the specialty tool websites but were wondering what hands-on experience people were having with them, Thanks, Bob W.
Originally Posted By: jremas This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
When I worked as an industrial electrician, I used a laser thermometer to check and track temps of very large ac & dc motors. I can see where we can find hot spots in panels but what good is it too us for the level of liability we are assuming with our inspections. If we see a hot spot, it may or may not need to be further investigated. An amperage check is a better check but not within our scope of training. I guess what I am getting at is do I really need to have one & why?
Originally Posted By: Bill Emelander This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Bob W
I recently purchased a Protimeter Surveymaster. It is dual function works great. It may be a little mor than you want to spend but well worth it. $439.95 at toolexperts.com.
Originally Posted By: rwills This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Bill, Thanks for the info on the moisture meter.
Jeff, I would say you don't really need one but, I know older inspectors who say you only need a flashlight! I use it just as an indicator of a possible problem. Depending on the temperature reading you get in the panel will determine if theres a problem or not. If you have something that's wired faulty and overheating, there is potential fire hazards, and personally I don't want to touch circuits with my hands to find out if there hot. For the price, it serves several purposes and clients are fascinated with it. I know plenty who use it and plenty who will say it's a waste, but, loke they say. To each his own!...Bob
Originally Posted By: jfarsetta This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Bob and Jeff,
One of the items I use the infared to check is the surface temp of the oven door. An oven door with old insulation can get as hot as the inside surface temp of the oven. Ovens may look great, but the older ones can be a real burn hazard. I'd hate to think of a little one brushing up against that door and getting hurt...
Originally Posted By: jremas This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Joe F,
Thanks for the tip on a great use for checking surface temperature. I think that is a great idea and really shows the customer that you are looking out for them. Thanks!
Originally Posted By: rwills This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Joe F, Great idea on the oven door! Another use is in the winter you can pretty much tell how well an exterior wall is insulated as opposed to the others, especially around windows, electrical boxes, etc…Bob
Originally Posted By: Richard Stanley This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Moisture meters: I use a Tramex “moisture encounter”. I purchased it directly from them. Search Tramex for the web site. I don’t remember the price, but, I thought it was reasonable. It is very handy. It has 3 different material type settings. 1 caveat - You can get false positives if there is metal under the surface, such as pipes, wiring, flashing, etc. One of these days I will probably get their “wet wall detector” - big bucks. If you have taken the EIFS course at Exterior Design Institute, they offer it at a discount.- but you probably know that!!!
Originally Posted By: jmyers This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Joe F.
Well...Jen and I have eight kids....sacrificing one here or there is not really a big deal. Just send in her kids first and let the others watch and learn! 
Originally Posted By: jmyers This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Jeff,
I am not sure if probing with a moisture meter would be considered beyond the standards of practice but I have to agree with you on the unwise portion of that thought.
The only "probing or prying" that I engage in would be to further invesitage or document a discovered condition.
Originally Posted By: Richard Stanley This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Jeff, There are different types of moisture meters. The one being referred to in this thread is non intrusive. No probes/pins. You are correct about probing without permission.
Originally Posted By: jfarsetta This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Moisture probes on conventional meters barely make a pin-prick. I use them on lots of surfaces. The homeowner is left with no mark. Considering that the buyer and seller are in contract, and the closing is subject to the inspection report, I believe the homeowner and client EXPECT this type of investigation be performed. EIFS probes are another item altogether. They require actual holes be punched. I can understand and respect the opposition to this type of destructive testing. But, a conventional moisture probe is little more and a needle contact. If I see a stain, I test its mousture content. If I see mold or mildew on wood, I check its moisture content. I do this on the sills and moldings of windows at random locations, both inside and outside. I even use the meter to determine an active mud-tube if I find one. Helps me to determine an active infestation.
Anyone use their meter at the bottom of basement stairs? A great way to tell of there has been a propensity of water in the basement! Don't destroy or mar, but don't be afraid to use reasonable means to perform your job?: inspecting the home and learning as much as you possibly can in the short time you are there...
Joe Farsetta 
Originally Posted By: jremas This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Since it is non invasive, I could see the use. But where to we find the guidlines for moisture content in wood? What is acceptible, & where? It is nice to report what the moisture content is, but then what? We need defined guidlines to follow based on outside / inside temperature and humidity, location of the testing, how deep we probed and what type of wood. If there is a 30% moisture content in the bottom 1/8" of a floor joist, but 0% on top & we have no idea in the middle or “meat” of a joist, what does that tell us? Basically, if we know it is present, there is an underlying problem with moisture / ventilation. At what levels do we have to refer the customer to a structural engineer? When a doctor gives you blood test results and tells you that your SEGS are elevated, our first questions are “what the hell is that & what does it mean?” We need to be able to answer similar questions. I am asking, because I don’t know where to find this information. Boy, do I get carried away or what?
Originally Posted By: Richard Stanley This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Jeff, Materials have different amounts of moisture content. For example, kiln dried lumber will have lower moisture content than field dried lumber. I don’t concern myself with the exact percentages. In the example you stated in your question, the bottom showed excessive moisture content and should be reported. The simplest way is to take readings at an obviously dry location and compare it to the suspect area. In my area which is usually very humid, gypsum walls are generally in the 7-10% range but that can vary depending on the efficiency of the ac system.
A brand new house can have about 100 gallons of water content before it has a chance to dry out. Comparison is the key. When I find excessive moisture content, I report it as such and recommend further invasive inspection.