mobile home roof question

ran across a composition roof nailed through the metal roof of a 1975 mobile, seemed ok but not sure what to include in the report, has anyone else seen this ?

A picture would be nice

looks like a regular comp roof until you walk on it and at first it seems like bad sheathing until you peek under the edge of the roof and see that the comp is stapled to the metal roof

Shingles need a satisfactory nailing base. You do not have that apparently. Additionally, low sloped pitches have special application needs.

http://www.iko.com/misc/CasmaPdf/16-LowSlopedRoofs.PDF

You have to be joking, there is no way in hell that’s correct.

Gerry

Mobile homes that were built with a rolled metal roof; the trusses were not designed for the extra weight of the shingles. Most trusses at that time were made with 1x2’s and 2x2’s put together with scrap paneling. After 30+ years the trusses are already starting to sag on most mobile homes that old.
**As Gerry said; You have to be joking, there is no way in hell that’s correct **

When that mobile home was built in 1975 I was an assistant production manager at a mobile home factory so I have some ideal how the trusses are made.
If you have any more questions call or e-mail me.

Gary
http://www.hsspropertyinspection.com/

sounds like it should leak like a sieve

Only when it rains Bill :mrgreen:

Gerry, don’t forget it will stop the rumbling metal sound because of the weight. So what if they need a bucket or two, at least it is quite. :):wink:

After reading this I’m cleaning my screen of again…we need pix -X

Nailed seams on a 90 lb asphalt roof membrane is the oldest trick in the book. It will only last as long as the owner continues to paste plastic roofing cement on the seams. He will need to inspect the seams twice a year and will have to continue to strip in those seams where it is needed. As long as a heavy wind doesn’t come through and rip off the roof, he may be able to stretch it out for awhile.

A better solution would have been to screw down a layer of fiberboard roof insulation (1/2" thick) and to glue a seamless rubber membrane over that. Terminate the edges with a term bar using #12 roofing fasteners at the top of the wall as the membrane returns down off the roof edge. The adhesive for the rubber is simply a bonding cement, yellow glue, and it comes in a 5 gallon can which can be bought at any roofing wholesaler and probably even Home Depot.

Ted