Well, I’m sure the quick answer will be go get it tested… yes I should, but I’m seeing if any of you have come across this before. *fyi this is my house, I was aware there was water damage in the basement bedroom(now our storage room) when I purchased it.
Looking at the green spec’s they almost appear as paint specs, and they are random. the green specs are not in the area that got water damage. *by the window, and floor. see pics.
I’m just going to remove the foam and put new foam up, then install drywall, or panels.
Moisture will continue to come through at the furring strip rigid insulation joints, Patrick.
Consider covering the whole wall with rigid insulation and sealing the joints, then applying furring strips or a stud wall (which is better for running electrical, etc).
[quote="Patrick Crooks, post:11, topic:246404, username:pcrooks”] FYI the water/mold damage was caused by a down spout getting pulled out and water drained right into the window wells. about 6-8 years ago.
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This doesn’t appear to be by the window. No matter, unless you want to follow a tried and true method.
there was a giant storage closet pushed up against that wall, hence why I think more mold is there, but there is a small window straight up from the right edge of the picture. Floor has a slight slope that way.
Larrys “This Old House” link is spot on. Note: Taped poly vapor barrier applied to the foundation wall. Don’t use duct tape per TOH link, use 3M 8607 flashing tape and Tremco Acoustical caulk. Use closed cell foam insulation with sealed seams. Install furring over the foam, not between the foam panels.
For basements, bead board is not a good product, nor is fiberglass. You need a moisture barrier directly against the foundation wall plus the ability for insulation to dry towards the inside. You must get control of your past moisture infiltration issues before you start any insulation.
Anything else won’t work. You need to understand basement moisture sources and moisture flow in basement wall insulating systems. There are a lot of wrong ways to do this.
Don’t do that, until you understand WHY the mold appeared in the first place. Yes those are mold spots: likely bits of dirt or whatever combined with moisture and time led the mold to grow.
You need a way for damp walls behind to dry out, all the time, in all seasons. A local moisture consultant is your way forward. DIY is dumb here.
