Originally Posted By: jpope This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I tried your experiment
(don't try this at home kids )
The GFCI receptacle wasn't grounded, so obviously, the tester wouldn't trip the device, but the internal test button worked as it should. . .
So I get out my wiggy (cuz the faucet is right there ), but it didn't trip when I applied a "ground fault" from the hot conductor to the faucet
As it turned out, I didn't actually apply a ground fault as the faucet wasn't bonded to the system
If at first you don't succeed. . .
I grounded the conductor to the light fixture and it worked
So now that I've learned an additional method of "testing" the function of a GFCI receptacle, I'll be looking for the scenario we discussed in another thread.
-- Jeff Pope
JPI Home Inspection Service
"At JPI, we'll help you look better"
(661) 212-0738
Originally Posted By: bbadger This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Cool, I should say that using your wiggy to trip the GFCI is more of an indication the GFCI works it is not a ‘true’ test as the wiggy draw well above the 4 to 6 ma that is the GFCI setting.
However it can tell you if it is wired properly or if a given outlet has GFCI protection.
As Greg mentioned never ground out a GFCI with a direct connection, along with a possible fried GFCI explaining all the sparks to anyone around can be tough. 
-- Bob Badger
Electrical Construction & Maintenance
Moderator at ECN
Originally Posted By: Greg Fretwell This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Bolted fault
That means a dead short, as if you “bolted” the two conductors together.
Generally anytime you create a fault path that will not blow open before something else (like the breaker) opens. In the case of a GFCI, the relay inside will smoke long before the breaker operates. It can either fail open or shorted. I have had GFCIs survive but it wasn’t one of those cheap Asian deals.
