What size heat banks were they using, and how many?
It’s printed right on the heater’s just inside the access panel cover[FONT=Tahoma][size=2].[/size][/FONT]
[/size][/FONT]What was the amperage draw on the electric heat circuit[FONT=Tahoma][size=2]?
V * A = Watts / 3.412 = BTU/hr
The heat pump should be set up so that it can operate in the electric heat mode only (especially in extremely cold/humid weather). Just like the weather we’re having right now.
You simply have undersized electric heaters in this application.
There are numerous top end equipment modifications available to stage the banks to operate only when needed.
With an outdoor air temperature of 35°, a heat pump should not be producing more heat than the electric heat banks.
What happens when the heat pump goes into defrost? It has to fight the air conditioner on top of cold weather! I don’t like the sounds of that design. It’s all about a matter of options, and system design for the application.
I’m sure that you cannot answer the above questions because you stated previously (in another post) that you did not open the panels because they were screwed shut.
If you took a look inside[FONT=Tahoma][FONT=Tahoma][size=2], you could answer these questions and we could give you an answer to use in your inspection report. There is a high probability that when you call this out in your report, you will be met with extreme resistance from the HVAC contractor because you have insufficient data to refute their design calculation.[/size][/size][/FONT]
[/size][/FONT]If you do not collect information by opening up a panel. If you do not obtain the values to determine the heater’s output (which is a simple mathematical equation)[FONT=Tahoma][size=2], I suggest that you do not report anything about this because this is beyond your home inspection standard of practice in accordance with your state law. Evaluation and performance of the HVAC equipment is not the responsibility of the home inspector.