New Build with no GFCI protection?

Neither does mine. All GFCI and AFCI breakers. I installed it that way.

Just hold down the button on your tester for about 3 seconds. It won’t always trip the GFCI breaker with a quick tap.

The breaker test button is the only official test. The 3 light tester is just a convenience tool for us.

*Disclaimer- Someone may have already provided this answer. I did not read the whole thread because they sometimes go off into left field.

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You’re right, the OP determined he did not hold the button down long enough. (can be up to 6 seconds)

Just curious does anyone know why it takes that long, is there a delay built into the tester circuitry?

I believe the UL standard requires the device to trip much faster than several seconds. I thought it was measured in cycles, not seconds.

I found this in an old blog, but I am trying to chase it down to something definitive.

"GFCIs aren’t instantaneous. They have a trip range just like a breaker does, and on a very low-level ground fault that’s right on the edge of their detection band, they will take seconds to trip.

UL uses this curve calculation in their tests:
Trip Time=(20/mA)^1.43

If you do the math for a 6mA ground fault, you can see that the normal delay is permitted to be as long as 5.59 seconds. So check for an actual ground fault."

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I also found this and posted it before higher up in this thread.

New 2020 NEC codes requires that all circuits at the house need be protected by AFCI/GFCI breakers. That’s cover not only bedrooms, now bathrooms, kitchens, garage, dryer, oven washer, dishwasher, trash compactor, etc.
Those breaker need to be Identified on panel so you can tested pushing the button or using a AFCI/GFCI tester.

No need GFCI receptacles, but those close by water, need to be labeled.

Where in the 2020 NEC is that section requiring labels near water?

Article 210.8 states that ground-fault circuit-interrupters shall be used for all 125-volt, single-phase, 15- and 20-amp receptacles installed in the following locations:

  • Bathrooms: All receptacles must be GFCI protected.
  • Garages and accessory buildings: GFCI protection must be included on all receptacles in structures that have a floor located at or below grade level, not intended as habitable rooms and limited to storage areas, work areas, and areas of similar use.
  • Outdoors: All outdoor receptacles must be GFCI-protected, with one exception: receptacles that are not readily accessible and are supplied by a dedicated branch circuit for electric snow-melting or deicing equipment do not need to be protected.
  • Unfinished basements: Unfinished basements are defined as portions or areas of the basement not intended as habitable rooms and limited to storage areas, work areas, etc. Receptacles in these areas must have GFCI protection. Exceptions: GFCI protection is not required for the receptacles supplying only a permanently installed fire alarm or burglar alarm system, receptacles that are not readily accessible, or receptacles on a dedicated branch circuit and labeled for use with plug-in equipment (ex: sump pump).
  • Crawl spaces: In unfinished areas located at or below grade level, the same GFCI requirements are in effect as for basements.
  • Kitchens: All receptacles serving countertop areas and any receptacle within 6 feet of a sink must have GFCI protection. Also, the receptacle supplying a dishwasher should be GFCI-protected.
  • Laundry, utility, and wet bar sinks: Where receptacles are placed within 6 feet of the outside edge of the sink, they require GFCI protection.
  • Pool/spa areas: GFCI protection is required for lights and lighting outlets; receptacles for pumps; all receptacles within 20 feet of a pool, spa, or fountain; and power supply for a pool cover.

Roy what is the source of this document? According to the NEC there are several errors in it.

This is incorrect. All circuits do not need gfi protection. Nor are all circuits requiring afci protection. Also the gfi protection can be from gfi device, not only a breaker. The NEC also allows afci protection to come from a afci device located after the panel.

I believe it was 210.8(A) GFCI Protection. Dwelling Units.

The unfinished has been removed from the NEC. Even finished areas now require the gfi protection.

I see where they made the changes in 2020.

Also… (A)(2) for basements previously only required GFCI protection in unfinished areas; (A)(2)requires all receptacle outlets in basements (area below grade level) to be GFCI protected, regardless if the basement is finished or unfinished. During the 2020 NEC code cycle it was substantiated that conductive floor surfaces prone to damp, wet or flooded conditions may exist in both finished and unfinished basements. The potential for electrical hazards and risk of a shock hazard exists regardless of unfinished or finished surfaces.

Duh! Of course it is! Did you just learn that?

ALL 120V circuits in a residence are grounded.

What Robert Kennedy said is incorrect. The receptacle is Grounded. That white wire that you see on receptacle outlets is the GROUNDED conductor. Would you care to guess why it is called the GROUNDED conductor?

You and others should invest a little time in learning the basics of electrical system design. There is a difference between “Not grounded” and “No equipment ground”. As I said before, ALL 120V electrical receptacle outlets are GROUNDED.

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@gwells Stop being obtuse. It also helps to frame the language in the correct context which you seem to be unable to do… The discussion was about the diagram showing the current path on the grounding conductor and why a 3 light tester would not trip a breaker. A 3 light is not looking for a grounded conductor to trip a gfi device.

The receptacle would still be GROUNDED because residential systems use a SPLIT-PHASE transformer connection that is ALWAYS GROUNDED. Even if it the ground connection is missing at the the house, it will be grounded at multiple locations upstream of the house.

The problem is that you and others are confusing the concept of an EQUIPMENT GROUNDING CONDUCTOR with GROUNDED.

Grounding the center tap of the transformer’s secondary helps to stabilize the system and the center tap itself provides 120V from a 240V secondary. It has been a standard in the USA to GROUND all residential secondary center taps for 100 years or more. Every utility company in Norther America (Even in Texas) grounds the center tap. Therefore, if the electrical receptacle outlet is not grounded, it is not going to have 120V and if it does not have 120V, it is not going to work.

Some really need to try and help others instead of continually inflating their egos.

According to the NEC a receptacle is grounded when it’s connected to an EGC not the grounded conductor of a branch circuit.

406.4 General Installation Requirements. Receptacle outlets shall be located in branch circuits in accordance with Part III of Article 210. General installation requirements shall be in accordance with 406.4(A) through (F).
(A) Grounding Type. Except as provided in 406.4(D), receptacles installed on 15- and 20-ampere branch circuits shall be of the grounding type. Grounding-type receptacles shall be installed only on circuits of the voltage class and current for which they are rated, except as provided in Table 210.21(B)(2) and Table 210.21(B)(3).
(B) To Be Grounded. Receptacles and cord connectors that have equipment grounding conductor contacts shall have those contacts connected to an equipment grounding conductor.
(C) Methods of Grounding. The equipment grounding conductor contacts of receptacles and cord connectors shall be grounded by connection to the equipment grounding conductor of the circuit supplying the receptacle or cord connector.