osb roof sheathing installed correctly?

My old roof deck is 1x8 butted boards with fairly large cracks and gaps so county inspectors required new sheathing. Sheathing installer stapled 13/32 over old boards with 16 ga.x2" staples 6’ o.c. into rafters. no staples where placed in ends and edges of osb panels. I am concerned that to few staples were used (staples 4"o.c.)and they only penetrate 3/4" into rafters. Also concerned about the likelihood of the edges swelling over time. the osb went right from the truck pallet onto my roof. the county inspector never saw the deck until the underlayment was on and shingles were 95% installed. He approved it per the installers word, “stapled 6” o.c. rafters only".

Here is a place to start but your inspector should be able to tell you if the install was correct. If you had a concern you should have stopped the work and asked a few questions.

here that would not fly…no matter where your seems break they have to be nailed if I am reading your post right…where is your preroof insp from the city or county they should have inspected the deck before they gave the green light to roof the home. with no felt on it… next issue staples are very weak and not sure in your area but here you need to nail off all plywood roof decking with a 8d nail 4 nails perrafter in the fileld and on any joint it should be every 3to4"…sounds fishy to me…ive been roofing for 17 years and this would never fly…or passs code…

There is evidence that suggests a conflict of interest. Inspector and installer do business together. That’s all I’ll say about that. As to my concerns, they came about near the roof completion. As I find information about sheathing and such I find more concerns. I now know more about roofing than I ever wanted. I was hoping for some expert unbiased opinions that might support my findings.
Sounds like you believe that I had some negligence. And you really think I could have stoped the work. All sub contract piece workers, slamming down sheathing with underlayment and shingles right behind them. I think they would have roofed right over me.

We are not code inspectors and the code inspector has the final say in this situation. So let’s say one of us is willing to say it’s not right. We still don’t know your area or code they use. The best bet is to call some reputable local roofers or the building department and ask your question, but at this point what can be done? You would have to tear it all off to repair it and that’s why if you think there is an issue you ask a question at the time of the work being done.

Oh that don’t sound good . if you live in a high wind area , you risk losing your roof covering . And in time your sheeting could curl up at the edges and effect the life your shingles . you need to take evidence of this to your building authority . That is if you intend to do anything to have this corrected . :o:D:D

The most important part of the nailing schedule is the perimeter nailing, especially the ends. Typical fastening schedule for plywood or OSB panels is 6" at the ends and 12" in the field. Installing fasteners less than 12" in the field does not add much strength to the panel. It’s the edge nailing that’s important.

Shingle buckling is a possibility. Those panels come off the production line about about 6% moisture content and will expand as they adapt to local humidity levels. Even here in Colorado where it’s very dry, 20% humidity is common.

What you describe is a bad job and I seriously doubt it complies with any requirements anywhere. Check local requirements. If necessary, get an inspector back out there, tear an area down to the deck and make him look at it and approve it.

I believe also that there should be gaps between the sheeting for expansion/contraction. Some installers use small metal sleeves for separation. Two layers of sheeting would not fly here. Check with your locality and insurance company, and manufacturer of the shingles. Some warranties may be voided.

think they went over skips…which is ok…?

some areas/muni’s say OSB over skipped sheathing is OK…

For the above… I think I woulda been nailing with 10d coolers…

Having done that, the 10d’s held well enough that I had to scab the voids @ the 1X to keep the perimeter from deforming.

2" Staples??? Nah, not me… I think even 8d’s would be kinda weak… I vaguely remember 8d’s needing 1 3/8 (1" of material) for min lateral strength. 10d’s need 1.5", but you’d have it for the above scenario… minor diff’s via Cooler and Common’s.

I’m stuck with a bad situation. What’s the fix. How do you go back and properly re-nail/staple the sheathing to the deck thru the underlayment and shingles? Sounds like I need some independ experts to make the call, repairs are do-able or you have to tear off and start over.

Sorry to say Landon, but the fix is to rip it off and re-do it. The cost should be borne by the contractor who performed the work, since they’re responsible for correcting any sub-standard work.

First, you have to demonstrate that the work is sub-standard, so that’s the first step in the process. Contact the contractor and ask them if they approve of the manner in which the work was done. Maybe they’ll say no and take care of it. It wouldn’t be the first time a bad employee has cost their employer a lot of money. There are good contractors (and bad) out here.

If you don’t get relief that way… follow the local laws for redress.

Landon I am guessing you are a roofer or trying to learn.
I hope I am wrong and will give zero advice from now on to non members.
I see something funny here when you know a bit of technical language yet you come in asking questions about a roof you posted and I answered thinking you are a HI in training.
Second roof you are posting and zero question’s about HI.
So at least be honest and tell us the truth.
Man I hate being used !!! I small at rat.
I am going to say one more thing.
You are making money and anyone that supports you can sit back and help him litigate this one in court.
I smell something funny here and I said we should not help any, any, any non member in the building trades.
We are Home Inspectors.Not builders.
Landon there are better places on the internet to suite your purpose yet you come here.

Great callout Kenton.
Man I smell something wrong with this Kid.

You need to start with your local jurisdiction whom performed the in progress roofing inspection and find out if they are enforcing the International Residential Code which was supposed to adopted nationally in 2001.
If indeed they are then the roof sheathing would have to meet the requirement of DOC PS1 or DOC PS2 among other criteria it would have to be spaced with a minimum 1/8" gap between panels. As far as fastening staples are no longer a permitted means of attachment. For up to 1/2" sheathing an 8d common nail 2-1/2" long with a shank of 0.113" nailed 6" on edge and 12" in field (1 ply installation). Since this application is a sheet over, the minimum required nail would then be a 10 d common at
3" in length. The ends of the roof sheathing are required to fall over a structural framing member or be attached to solid blocking. The field nailing (12" o.c.) is also required to fall over structural framing members (not just through the first layer of roof decking). The information I have sighted is from the I.R.C. chapters 5 and 8