Power supply for range

This is a mother-in-law new construction add-on to main home.

At the panel, 50 amp breaker labeled for range is wired with 3 conductor CU. The two (2) #6 awg are connected to the breaker, with the smaller bare #12 conductor spliced and extended to the neutral bus.

Shouldn’t the ‘neutral’ be the same size as the 2 hots?
Shouldn’t 4 wire conductor have been used so it would be grounded?

Also, the conductors for upper right 60 amp breaker are not the right size !

Thanks,

Yes and No

Range mfg is god in this case – New ranges can be wired as three or four wire. Remember a lot of old homes that need new ranges are three wire and new homes and some up grades are four wire

So the answer is Yes and No

rlb

Neutral wire size is OK

Can’t address the other question because to the pix size

rlb

As per code (250.140), new installations of ranges and dryers are required to be installed with 4 conductors.

Existing ranges/dryers wiring is permitted to stay as the wiring was installed.

If, as you stated this is a new installation, the number of conductors to the range is incorrect.

Note:
Is the bus connecting the lefthand side of the neutral bus still bonded to the righthanded side, the equipment ground side? If so, that should also be corrected.

Are the cables of NM? If so, the conductor ampacity is restricted to the 60C column of Table 310.16 for sizing.

That is X/2NM cable. The bare wire is NOT a neutral. They simply (and incorrectly) used a piece of #12 white to extend the #10 bare GROUND.

IF, and only if, this is a straight 240v oven, then this is all fine except for the undersized ground jumper.

If, as Pierre says, this is 120/240v range or similar appliance it is extremely incorrect and unsafe.

Even if this was a old 120/240v installation, it would not have been code. X/2NM cable was never allowed to be used as a “3-wire” range or dryer circuit. The bare GROUND in NM cable was never allowed to carry circuit current.
The only time this was allowed was if type SEU cable was used. SEU cable has a bare neutral, and no ground.

What he said.

There remains the possibility that this is a straight 240 volt range, but they are normally only the little 24" apartment ranges and commercial ranges that are straight 240. I’d seriously doubt this is a 240 volt range, though, unless it looks abnormal to you. This is more than likely just an improperly connected ordinary range.

This is for a new standard home range. GE brand, smooth top electric.

It didn’t look right to me.
Panel labeling is suspect (no biggie)
The bonding screw should be removed also.

I’ll call for evaluation by qualified electrician of all that was done.

The contractor that did all this has been fired. Over budget and time frame. Kept pushing the pencil on the owner.

Thanks for all the input. Sure is great !!

Is this a sub-panel? If so, shouldn’t the undersized ground jumper at least go to the grounding bus bar i.e. separated from the neutrals.
Still trying to learn.

Actually yes. I missed that in the pic.

Then this is an extremely non-compliant installation and should be called out as unsafe.

This is a subpanel. Power supplied from original home panel.

The whole addition has some problems. Owner wanted to use overhead garage doors on one wall to take advantage of the view at times. Trouble is the floor is flat (not dropped down at the o.h. doors), and can’t seal sides or bottom well enough.

She also wanted ceiling fans, so the overhead doors will only open up about 3 feet before hitting the shaft of the ceiling fan.

Contractor saved couple hundred finding damaged A/C condenser, but the coils are damaged.

Jacuzzi tub looks to have been at a scratch & dent. The top deck is scratched and has a chunk missing on one corner.

It goes on and on. :mrgreen: