Recessed Lighting in Garage Ceiling
There are fire rated recessed cans on the market (they look like a big drywall box), but I’d sorta doubt that’s what you’re dealing with. Might want to look into that a bit if those cans are a penetration in a rated assembly.
Is there dwelling space above the garage? That would require a fire rated ceiling
I agree.
From what I know, with no living space above, the fire rated ceiling needs only to be 8 feet(?) out from the dewlling partition.
Here is a pic from today’s inspection
Interesting that those lighting penetrations are fire rated, but the hvac transition ducts are not. Either the electrician is wasting money, or the hvac people dropped the ball.
I also see the phone and cable running right next to the 120. Not a violation, but certainly poor practice. Current BICSI standards would require the phone and cable to be 12" away from line voltage conductors when running parallel, and 3" away when crossing at a perpendicular.
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I am actually surprised too but not for the same reasons you are. The photos are at the second floor attic (not above the garage) but there is a third story “tower” which now classifies the home as a 3-story. Ok, here is the surprise, the current local codes states that there needs to be a fire suppression system on anything over two floors (excluding a 2.5 floor mezzanine). Unless I have been misinformed, some how this home got through the requirements. Here is the catch, the builder is also the developer of this and other high priced communities. hhhmmmmmmmmm
Master Bedroom Suite is located above this space.
ahhh…didn’t a previous QOD bring attention to those type of light bulbs being used in recess cans as being…well…not a good thing…
as well.
I don’t know, Paul. Most of the cans I’ve put in the last several years have some wattage of A-19 lamp as being permitted in the lamp list. They look dumb, but often they are permissible.
I have seen potential fires start from a 100 W lightbulb in a recess can, the design of most reflector bulbs for recess cans divert the heat enough to not be a problem…the can’s I install clearly say the type of bulb that goes in them and normal incand. bulbs I don’t believe are listed.
I’ll have to get some pictures up then, maybe. Most every list I look at inside of the cans has an A19 lamp of some wattage or another listed. None of them I’ve ever seen will take a 100, naturally.
I know you prefer the SunStar cans, and they are only for R or BR lamps. They’re an oddity.
The most popular Halo cans are the H7 series, and they can take a regular lamp: http://www.cooperlighting.com/specfiles/productinfopdf/H7ICT.pdf
The most popular Progress cans are the P87 series, and they can take a regular lamp up to and including 100 watt. Just noticed that: http://www.progresslighting.com/pdfs/P87.pdf
http://www.progresslighting.com/pdfs/P8075.pdf
Just some stuff for starters.
Marc…as much a wattage issue as I have seen standard Incand. bulbs heat up so much around the edge of the can it discolors the ceiling from the heat…not enough to blow the thermal in some cases but enough to heat up the trim and edge sides…causing discoloration on the sheetrock.
I dont always use Sunstar…just like the speedycans they have…installed about 130 on a large job just recently and all worked like a charm.
• Socket can be used as a temporary work light
with ‘A’ lamp
I do notice the Halo do allow A-19 but in limited use on some models only…as well as they restrict it to 60W bulbs…probably a wise thing.
My problem is when I see them with “A” type bulbs they are usually over 75 Watts…and that bothers me as I notice progressive is not so OPEN about the use of an " A " type as Halo is…but again notice some models do not allow “A” type from the PDF you posted…so it really depends on the model…but overlamping is a huge concern with those bulbs which is why the higher wattage ones are R or BR style bulbs.
Dam* I can’t get rid of text errors somethimes…I give up…lol
What they mean there is that you can actually pull the socket out and let it hang like a work light during the construction phase, without a trim. It’s a peculiar feature of the Progress cans. That’s why I also posted the link to the trim for that can, which shows you can use a 100w a-19 lamp permanently with that trim (just a generic popular smooth open trim).
Hmm…I did not see that statement Marc in the text…but you need to remember not all companies are the same…There are limitations to each recess can that we all need to be aware of. Some do not allow A-19 bulbs as shown in the PDF…it depends on the light itself.
Sorry I read it as “A” bulbs can only be used when sockets are used as Temp lights in the manner you have described…not all cans work that way.
I will look at it again but I did not see on the attachment that information about using a standard incand. for the perm. use…still dont like the practice as it does not deflect the heat well…but then again what do I know…it’s only my view.
I can’t imagine how any can will work with an “A” bulb much more than a 40 or maybe a 60. I assume they get the listing because they have thermal protection and the 100 will blink when it heats up the can.
It is really pretty amazing how well an “R” bulb sends the heat out of the can. I understand the same is true of the outdoor lamp holders and PAR bulbs.