Soffit Baffle Issue

Hey Guys, :cool:

I have a low slope truss roof and unfortunately need to install baffles at rafter ends as the insulation is blocking air flow. The problem is I can’t reach the ends. I have no idea how to proceed with this must do project. I thought about hiring it out but how will they reach it if I can’t?


Can you possibly reach from the soffit area?

Hi Ian,

Do you mean remove the vents from outside and install them?

Yes, I have seen that done a few times around here on the lower slope roofs.

That’s good news, thanks. Is this usually done by a roofer or insulation contractor? I just had the roof replaced a few days ago and the roofing contractor told me that I had to physically find a way to do this from inside the attic. We are going to have a nice talk in the morning. :wink:

Well, you would have to remove one of the vents and see what you will be dealing with as far as obstacles. Alot of times these can be installed from the soffit side. but every situation is uniques, and there may be something hindering that from this approach, definitely worth a look though I would think.

Is it blown-in or batt? For blown-in, I just use a rake to reach down into the eaves and pull some back. For batt… just pull on it.
Did you ever get your vents installed for your bath exhaust ducts yet?

Hi Jeff, yes I did thanks. Broan has a model for like $40 that will pull a piece of tissue right from your hand.

Hire a couple of midgets.

Yea the midgets might be a good idea.

I might remove the vent covers from the outside and cut-clear away.

Erol, what is the CFM for those? sounds kinda cheap. I like to use the Panasonic whisper fan/light combo. 110 CFM and very quiet but cost 150.00.

What type of home do you own? and how old?

I’ve always wondered why people elect to go with the quietest fans…


Use a telescoping painters handle with a piece of wood taped to the end. Notch the wood portion to accept the baffle, and use the telescoping handle as an extension of your arm.

Best bet is if you have someone to ‘reload’ the baffles so all you have to do is work the center and pivot back and forth from the center area to the person reloading the baffles. Lessens the chance of a follow up project on teh ceiling below…

If the baffle doesn’t want to release from the pole after you finesse it into the eave area, give the pole a twist and break a little piece away to release it, assuming you are using foam baffles. My assumption is that you are talking 24 oc with the truss construction? You might be able to get away with every 2nd one.

Easier with 16 oc, but still doable.

You might also try using compressed air from the soffit side.

Make sure someone is in the attic to verify that this is working.


Other than a “percieved” problem according to “theory”, are you having any problems like ice damming with leakage, severe winter condensation/dripping?

If there is no active problem, why change things?

Hi Pete,

I must have been dreaming about the price, mine was $129 and is also 110 CFM with a 4’’ duct. ```html
Nutone Vent

The home is a 1600 sq. ft 1979 single story ranch on a 11,000 sq.ft lot which is big for my area. Got a very good price, but installed GAF architectural shingles a few days ago, concrete encapsulated the crawl space, 95% furnace with HEPA filtration and Pella windows. Seller installed new baths and kitchen. We are first time buyers so we got back $8K plus tax break for furnace and windows.

Good point, Brian. Not a single problem and we had a nasty winter. But now that I have ridge vents and need to close off the gables, I need to know for sure.

That’s the problem with roofers, someone needs to tell them the standards are changing again.