Student discussions of "How to Inspect Fireplaces, Stoves, & Chimneys" course

Pictured is a broken chimney flue. It was likely damaged from a chimney fire where excess creosote build up led to combustion. This flue being broken above the termination point of the crown makes it susceptible to water intrusion. The evidence of a chimney fire also points to internal damage of the flue inside of the chimney. These are defects.

I would recommend this chimney be inspected and repaired by a qualified chimney sweep/mason.

Solid fuel Fireplaces are designed to burn one type of fuel, and one type of fuel only. Dry (seasoned) wood. Whether that comes in the form of construction scrap 2x4s, seasoned hardwoods from a tree that fell down, pellets, or pallets, only dry wood should be used.

If wet wood is used, incomplete combustion occurs, and fire temperatures are too low with too much moisture, which can cause inadequate drafts, or moisture intrusion into the house or chimney chase.

Other things not to burn are treated lumber, plywood, colored paper, petrochemicals like lighter fluid or gasoline, household trash, and much more. Many of these things produce toxic byproducts when burned, which can cause a range of health issues, from asthma to cancer. These can also cause fires to burn too hot, which can damage the flue liner, and weaken the heat protection the liner offers.

Don’t burn wet wood, junk, or anything other than dried fireplace safe wood products in your fireplace.

The chimneys pictured are both masonry. The chimney in the foreground is the wood stove chimney and has an unused flue, which goes to the basement and is sealed. It has good height above the roof and has no cracks nor leans. The red brick chimney in the background is the oil fired furnace chimney. The crown, which is barely visible, is broken off in several places. The chimney does not have cracks, missing mortar nor does it lean. Neither chimney has a cap to prevent water intrusion.

This fireplace has a hearth extension that is 12 inches from the opening. The damper is in good working condition and the flue appears to be intact. There log grate to keep the wood off the fireplace bottom. The firebox sides and back all have approved brick and mortar applications. The fireplace is equipped with glass and steel mesh fireplace doors.

If you have a fireplace or wood stove, it is very important to follow fire safety precautions. These include having smoke detectors in every room of the house, a fire extinguisher on every floor within 75 feet of any distance on each floor. On top of hardware, you should have an escape plan in case of a fire that you share with each member of the household.

This is a sealed, factory-built, double-sided fireplace. The gas shutoff is located directly below the unit. It is installed on an exterior wall and although there is no obvious exhaust system it appears to vent outside. I thought I saw a section in this class about sealed factory units, but after combing through the course several times and searching the glossary, articles, and graphics of the site I couldn’t find any information about sealed units.

Research & Writing Exercise: I read an article on factory-built fireplaces. These units require less clearance than a traditional masonry fireplace because an “air-blanket” is incorporated into its design which reduces heat. These units may be placed over the top of combustible flooring materials so long as it rests on a metal or tile panel the same length and width of the unit.

This is a picture of a chimney that is very damaged and in need of major repairs. The brick and mortar are deteriorated greatly and are coming apart. There are also no counter flashings or step flashing installed on the chimney.

I learned that while doing an inspection of the garage some defects will be obvious and some you will have to look for. Some things to specifically look for are improper connections of trusses, improper fasteners and improper installation of fasteners.

The inspector should inspect for the following hazardous conditions:
a combustible lintelabove the fireplace opening; No combustible lintel.
combustible material within 12 inches above afireplace opening that projects out more than 1 inches from the face of the fireplace;
a throat or damper located less than 8 inches above thefireplace opening. There are no combustible materials within 12 of the opening or that project more than 1 1/2 from the face of the fireplace.
a manually operated damperthat does not operateor closeproperly; and a damper ordamper componentthathas rust or corrosion.This fire place has been sealed by the previous owner of the home so the damper could not be inspected.
The inspector should inspect for hearth extensions that:
are less than 16 inches in front ofor less than 8 inches beyond each side ofthe fireplace opening (6 square feet or less); and
are less than 20 inches in front ofor less than 12 inches beyond each side of thefireplace opening (greater than 6 square feet). In this case the fireplace is 36x 30 or 7 1/2 sq ft. The hearth extension is 20 and the sides are 12

Fire extinguishers are distinguished based on the types of fires on which they are effective. These fires are classified by their fuel source and assigned identifying letters as follows:
A class Fires that result from ordinary combustibles, such as wood and paper.
B class Fires that result from combustible liquids, such as kerosene, gasoline, oil, and grease.
C class Fires of an electrical nature. These result from the combustion of circuit breakers, wires, outlets, and other electrical devices and equipment. Extinguishers designed to handle this type of fire cannot use chemicals that are conductive since conductive agents increase the risk of electric shock to the operator.
D class Fires resulting from combustible metals, such as sodium, potassium, titanium, and magnesium. These fires occur mostly in chemical laboratories and are rare in most other environments.
K class These types of fires consume vegetable oils, animal fats, and generally happen in kitchens.

Chimney Inspection: Preventing Collapse. I learned that collapse is not the only reason to inspect a chimney. The suplimental link in the article provided detail on inspection items like cracks in the masonry or gaps between flues and distance requirements for flues and cleanouts. The article provided recommendations for mitigating the damage and danger surrounding a chimney collapse.

The Chimney cap on this masonry chimney is showing significant cracking and deterioration. There is a hole about an inch big that water is likely entering and could cause damage to the brickwork. The mortar joints are also showing signs of deterioration. I suggest further review by a professional chimney contractor.

I chose the Chimney inspection preventing collapse article. Chimneys are some of the heaviest and most structurally vulnerable parts of a home. Heavy winds can be very dangerous to a weakened chimney and could cause collapse. Leaning chimneys can make using the fireplace hazardous. Chimneys should be inspected by a professional before use.

Fire safety for the home is a very serious and preventable hazard. Active precautions are the best way to save lives and prevent injury. There are many ways to be proactive in prevention such as having working fire extinguishers, fire alarms and carbon monoxide detectors in the home, and in the right areas are just the first steps you can take for fire safety.

A chimney cricket is required on chimneys parallel with the roof ridge with dimension greater than 30 inches. The cricket will transport the water from the ridge side of the chimney off the roof. The cricket is usually the same slope as the roof. The chimney cricket should also have proper flashing installed into the chimney side to prevent water intrusion into the home.

In this picture you will see a chimney with several different issues. The structure of the chimney is in need of repointing. The chimney has a cap that has collapsed and is allowing water and animals to pent rate the structure

The picture in the gallery I reviewed was of copper gas line for a fireplace aND the routing of it threw the floop fr. It states that flexible copper line 3/8" should be used. Along with a fuel shut off valve.

Fire place fuel.
What to burn, Dried cut firewood Pallets fallen tree limbs wood collected from housing developments fire logs. What not to burn. Painted wood Pressure treated wood plywood rotted wood Allergenic plants dryer lint Trash Driftwood In summery use approved fuel.

This Picture is of a chimney with improper flashing. There is no kick out flashing. Water damage is visible with the efflorescence left the brick. the brick is also starting to deteriorate. This needs to be repaired by a qualified professional