Originally Posted By: rmoore This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Jeff…
I've seen a couple so far. Same brand, one in a basement, and one in a garage. Frankly, aside from a visual of the connections, and measuring the water temp at a faucet, I had no idea how what else I should be looking for. Mine were "direct-vent" to the exterior wall, but I notice yours says "Outdoor Installation Only".
I took the cover off the first one, and then stuck it back on after assuring myself I didn't know diddly-squat about it.  But here's a photo.
-- Richard Moore
Rest Assured Inspection Services
Seattle, WA
www.rainspect.com
Originally Posted By: Brian A. Goodman This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I took the cover off the first one, and then stuck it back on after assuring myself I didn’t know diddly-squat about it.
It was still a good idea to take a look Richard (if the cover wasn't a mother). You don't have to understand much about them to spot burnt wiring, etc.
I looked at a few of these for myself a couple of years ago. They ran around $600 to start back then (ouch!). It's a soild idea, but I'll wait for 'em to come down a little.
Originally Posted By: gbeaumont This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Hi to all,
Jeff, you are correct, not too common here but very popular in parts of the world where space is at a premiumum, as Richard says normally these are "indoor" and direct vented. they are very efficient little units as you are only heating water on demand.
Originally Posted By: rcallis This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Jeff
I've had one of these Rinnai units for about 5 years and have been very pleased with it. I work for a company that sells them. The units do a fantastic job and have few problems. One caution, if you live in a area that gets freezing temperatures buy the insulated box to protect the piping.
Originally Posted By: Guest This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I own the Bosch aquastar and chose it over the competitve brands because it’s very simple and has few electronics. 8gpm @ 70 degree rise. Variable gas input and a mixing valve accomodate lower flow rates down to about 1/2 gallon a minute. I don’t like it for shaving…when you want to just let the hot water dribble to rinse the razor, the unit won’t kick on. Other than the unit’s been a workhorse for 7 years with no problems.
I’m toying with the idea of using one as a boiler for a radiant floor system.
Originally Posted By: Guest This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Gerry,
Relax, it's rated for the use. I like the idea because it's just over 90% efficient and self regulating. Manual reset high temp shut offs, low water sensors and pressure valves are employed.
Originally Posted By: jsavino This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Chad,
It might be better to run a water heater instead. I installed heating zones using a 30 gallon w/h, a domestic circulator and mixing valve. It delivered 160 degree water to the Modine blower unit and maintained 115 degrees to the house.
( there was a forced warm air system in the house, thats why i used the w/h)
Originally Posted By: gbeaumont This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Chad wrote:
Relax, it's rated for the use.
Well, I got to tell you I never new that  I had visions of you cobbling something together out of old brake lines, duct tape and a demister control valve from an '89 Taurus
Originally Posted By: rmoore This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Don’t know about radiant floor, but my second was also being used to feed half a dozen wall mounted, fan assisted, convectors. Small house, about 1000sf and, as it was about 85F in July, I have no idea how efficient it was. The house committed suicide for a number of other reasons, so I won’t be able to find out.
Quote:
Brian Goodman wrote: It was still a good idea to take a look Richard (if the cover wasn't a mother). You don't have to understand much about them to spot burnt wiring, etc.
Brian...good point. BTW...welcome to the NACHI BB. I've always enjoyed your posts over at that other site.
-- Richard Moore
Rest Assured Inspection Services
Seattle, WA
www.rainspect.com
Originally Posted By: keith wagner This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Reference: picture of Rinnai tankless water heater. Why does the water inlet and hot water outlet have flexible hose connections and why are there loops in them? Is this necessary or can they be hard plumbed?
Originally Posted By: pdacey This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
The flex connectors are cheap and easy. They have a loop because that was probably the shortest length that Home Depot had. I wouldn’t think you’d have to use flex. But it makes it easier to change out the unit in the future.
Originally Posted By: jpope This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Not necessary, just more practical. It makes for easier installation and, if need be, replacement. It would be like “hard plumbing” a sink faucet, not too practical. California plumbers love flex. They’ll use it wherever it’s allowed.
The loops aren't "needed" either.
-- Jeff Pope
JPI Home Inspection Service
"At JPI, we'll help you look better"
(661) 212-0738