Testing GFCI breakers

We should try to avoid flipping breakers as much as possible - so do we trip test GFCI breakers?

I don’t see how you can test them without tripping the breaker. The only recognized test is using the test buttons on the breaker or receptacle.

Testing a GFCI device is not the same as “flipping breakers.” GFCI devices are critical, life saving components that should be checked for proper operation whenever possible. It doesn’t matter to me whether it’s a GFCI receptacle or a GFCI breaker - I’m testing it.

I agree they should be tested.

Do HI’s make arrangements with the homeowner prior to an inspection where they’re notified that circuits may be shut off for testing purposes?

SOP is set up that you can’t do an inspection without testing the GFCI function.

Complete horse manure.

Everyone would be best advised to ignore everything this moron posts. I’m sure he will have many more inaccurate posts to follow.

Not as a standard practice for most HI’s.

SOP has it in there as I wanted to make sure. Even says to use a GFCI tester whenever possible.

Why would the SOP call for the use of a non recognized testing method instead of the testing laboratories recognized method? The 3 light tester is not recognized nor can you tell if the fault generated is within the trip level of Class A GFI protection. Seems to me the HI should use the correct method of testing.

Actually it calls for both.

If the correct method works why the redundant testing?

Because you can.

A compelling reason if I ever heard one. I guess if the recognized method works you can still write it up with the other results if it “fails”? Kind of a belt and suspenders approach.

Nobody does this, and it’s not in NACHI SOP.

The SOP states the GFCI is to be inspected (not tested). I do test them.

Those three light testers are not a good way to test GFCI receptacles. Some of them induce current to the EGC, which could be hazardous.

The proper way to test is using the button, with an applied load. Personally, I use the tester (lights) as the load, hit the button, and make sure my lights go out.

Somebody please correct me if I’ve been doing this wrong?

Be sure to leave your tester plugged in until you reset, to be sure it re-energizes! That can be a PIA on some older units. :wink:

I would not say the small fault to the egc should be an issue. That is what it is designed for.

ahh, good point JJ. I should have added that I do leave it in to make sure it re-energizes.

Last inspection revealed that very thing. The button did not reset the exterior receptacle, since the trip also tripped the one in the garage, which was feeding the exterior receptacle.

A “redundant” GFCI?

They simulate a leakage current fault just above the 5 mA trip level of the GFCI.

The one in the diagram below shunts 6.7 mA to the ECG.

Where is this hazard you claim?

I have some books on it somewhere, from some Electrical Courses I took some years ago. I can’t find them now, but this is pretty close


Does it say with the GFCI tester or with ****a GFCI tester?