Please excuse my limited knowledge in electrical. I plan on asking lots of questions now that I have slowed down, in preperation of better understanding the electrical systems. One of my goals of the future is to ask less questions & answer more questions which would indicate I understand and finally get it!!
Firstly…I think your HEAD will explode at my seminar, bring a sharp pencil as i cover alot in 8 hours.
My first questions are when I am checking the wire size in a panel and there is 14 Gauge wire to a 20 amp breakers is this acceptable for circuits in the kitchen.
Ok…No this is not acceptacle…not in the context that you have posted it…if you see a branch circuit that is 14 AWG it should be on a 15A breaker…
In reviewing the online course and it list maxium amperage for 14 gauge is 20 amp. This would be for the starting of a refrigerator compressor.
This is that in specific areas of the NEC you are allowed to put a larger breaker on a smaller conductor…BUT only where the NEC allows it and directs you to do so…NOT for general branch circuits you are speaking of. This issue is reserved for outside AC units and Motor Controls to name a few…not something you should worry about…i will show you how it pertains to exterior AC units…in the class or online.
Also when reviewing the air conditioner and the max fuse rating on the data plate says 30 Amps sometimes the pull out fuses and breaker in the panel dont match. Please explain to me so I can understand!
Other questions would be on:
OK…firstly if it says FUSED then it has to be a fuse in the protection layout of the installation…otherwise that is wrong…now most say Fuse/BKR and will allow either…now the reason you see different sized conductors and breakers is because the hard work has been done for you…the nameplate on the outside unit should have a Max Fused/Brk Size and Min Conductor Size…so if it says 30A MAX Fused/BRK…that is the 30A in the panel…but it may ( not always ) say 28A Min…which would still require a 10 AWG…but long story short…the nameplate tells you exactly what the max OCPD is and the Min circuit size is…no need to TRY and do the math…
**FPE is it Hype or hazard. **I am starting to think that the FPE hazards has been blown out of porportion.
Hmm…well on the FPE…it is all in what you feel…personally I think you all should defer them and have them looked at…it can’t hurt but I would steer away from the statements like the panel MUST be upgraded because it is FPE alone…usually their are other factors that will aid in this…too small of a panel for future capacity, sloopy and many hazards in the panel already and so on…ther is enough background data to endorse a deferred statement to an electrical contractor…you are better safe than sorry but i dont like the ALARMING statements I have seen in many reports…BUT again i can’t tell you what to do…some have seen larger issues than I have in them…but I know that in the tests…before the wire ACTUALLY were to burn up…it would have tripped…but again I am no TECH for them so who knows…I base it on the data I saw about the percentages and what i know it takes to start a fire…but again I always defer them anyway…better to be evaluated as usualy their is something else wrong…and we know i can;t defer it to myself…lol
Aluminum solid wiring. I never seem to find any. It always seem to be copper clad or tin coated. Is there a better way to identify aluminum solid wiring.
well it tends to be DULL in color…not shinny…and look for the dates it was manufactured and used…60’s and early 70’s…if the build is in that time frame…do some extra checking…look at the terminal buss and chances are you can see the ends of the terminals much better which may help you determine.
Knob & tube. As I understand the issues are from illegal splices & insulation covering & worn insulation. Anything else.
Well…it is many times overfused, i wish I had a dollar for every time I see 30A green fuses in them…the wire is usually 14AWG and not rated for 30A…as we know…not to mention the whole house is more or less a common neutral circuit…and a loose neutral connection raises the risk of overloading appliances and so on…and since usually people today have computers and flourescent lights…the broken wave form creates harmonics that play havoc on the grounded conductor " neutral" and well…K & T was not made for it…and i could go on but we will cover it in the seminar…
What types of references am I need of. NEC handbook, Code check?
Thanks for your help.
I appreciate all who answer & post on the board!!