David I started threads about this twice in the last few months and may be the only guy here calling it out.
You have two kinds of pucks and that is kind with a transformer which needs to be outside the wall or 110 v which is often stapled with uninsulated staples that become a safety hazard.
I have material I am compiling for a blog on this stuff as it is not addressed as of yet so I will be the first.
Look at the actual puck and you can read which type you have.
The wiring is not like doorbell wiring. Low Voltage lighting that operates at 12V or 24V has a lot of current - 10 times that of 120V lighting, current causes wire to burn. So the installer needs to keep that in mind and gauge the wire properly
Certain transformers are UL listed to be recessed into the wall, they need to have an IC rating, but they can achieve this if desired.
n mind and gauge the wire properly
Never hide a transformer in a wall or ceiling space that will get covered with paneling or drywall. The transformers must be in open view so they can be serviced or replaced. Keeping them in the open helps provide the needed ventilation. You can place them above dropped ceilings so long as the ceiling tiles can be removed and the transformer is in plain sight.
Dave I narrate most verbiage using custom comments suited to my clients I will see if I have anything canned on that as I store canned only for research purposes.
Open splices are permitted on class 2 conductors. The transformer should be listed as having a Class 2 output. This is really no different than having open splices on Class 2 thermostat or zone valve conductors.
I made a call to an electrician in my area that seems to know what he is doing. (I know you know what you are doing, sometimes I wonder what I am doing)
I may be not understanding but he said it made a difference on if it had a transformer or not. He stated if just plugged into an outlet it would may need to be corrected. Splices/wires. Sounds like there are 2 basic types.
Next time I need to take a better look at the plug in connection.
Correct me if I am wrong, but since this is a “plug-in” installation, and not ‘hard wired’, the appliance type cord is not allowed to penetrate walls, floors, etc…?
Correct and how about cabinet to cabinet through drill holes.
Two kinds remember.110v and 12 or 24 v with high current.
The 12 and 24 use a transformer so it is important to look at the puck and read the label.
No time now,I booked 3 while chatting here.Not kidding.
Mothers day kicked it all in.
Back to subject copy my notes and check those Halogens.
Gotta go drive an hour for a final walkthrough.