Verify bonding

Looking for suggestions on how to verify bonding of gutters, panels and appliances. What tool do you use. Thanks

My eyes. And I didn’t know a gutter needed to be bonded.

If I don’t see a bond at a panel box, I say this: “An electrical bond of cabinet and ground was not apparent. A bond should be confirmed by a licensed electrician.”

Good ol Texas Standards. They say verify bonding at gutters. A new guy asked me what to do and I said “Huh”? Gutters (I believe they are more appropriately called wireways) are found in large homes, multi family or commercial. Hardly ever see wireways on the average home. The Texas rule implies one must remove the gutter cover. I don’t know many that do that. Its dangerous on energized equipment. Anyway, I am still looking for any comment to make me smarter or dumber.

Duh in Texas

John, I may be wrong but I think this is going to require all Texas HI’s to invest in a Ideal Industries SureTest Circuit Analyzer with a:




Now that’s funny Mike. I have been using that for 24 years now. I took a beat up 3 prong tester and plugged it into a 2 prong adapter. Soldered lead onto 2 prong ground tab. I plug it into a grounded receptacle and touch everything with the alligator clip. If the tester lights up its bonded. Real ugly but works. There are more professional tools but the old ones are fun. I also used a zip lock bag full of water to seal off shower drains. Cheap but works great. :smiley: See attachment.

You mean to tell me, you don’t already have one? :stuck_out_tongue:


Oh man Jeff, your either very tidy or ya aint never used it. :smiley: They work great however.

I use the alligator clamps regularly, but I’ve never had the need to use the other one. . .

Nope, never had the need for one. Maybe now though. Jeff, can you tell me if a SureTest Circuit Analyzer will measure ground impedance of a chassis using only the adapter and alligator clip to the chassis? In other words, the SureTest would not be plugged into an outlet anywhere nor any other electrical connection made from or to the SureTest…only the alligator clip to the chassis. Will the SureTest be able to perform a ground impedance test under those conditions? How does the SureTest read out in that mode? An Ohms measurement I assume, right?

I’m not sure I understand what you’re asking Mike. The SureTest will give no measurement without an energized connection.

With an energized connection, it will give the ground impedance when using those adapters, which is measured in ohms.

I use the alligator clips often when I can’t visually verify the bond at the service equipment, but all three must be connected to get the reading. An unbonded cabinet will simply give an “open-ground” indication.

Measuring and interpreting the impedance might be where the TX requirement gets hung up. Just “verifying” the bond does not mean that the bond is proper or adequate.

If a bond is present, but has 4 ohms of impedance/resistance, is it really a “bond?”

How about considering the SureTest itself. You may get a reading of 0.03 ohms. However, the current used by the SureTest is not measured or displayed, so there’s no real way to verify that the bond is sufficient enough to clear a “high-current” fault.

OK, that is what my ‘electronics testing’ background was telling me but that is not how the SureTest instruction manual reads. What I am looking for is to be able to hold a test device in my left hand and touch the appliance chassis with a probe and the test device would ensure bonding to ground. I know that’s asking a lot but it is not technically impossible but maybe cost prohibitive.

There will be controversy and a learning curve as we (Texas HI’s) determine exactly what the new proposed SOP will require and how we will accomplish that. This is just one of several instances.