Originally Posted By: John Bowman This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
O.K. Harvey,
Non-Grounded Receptacle Outlets - 3 Prong or 2 Prong:
Current electrical codes require that a building be wired so that in addition to the black wire (the "hot" wire) and the white wire (the "common") in each circuit, there is a third wire called the ground. The purpose of this third wire is to do just what its name says; ground the metal housings of appliances, switch boxes, cover plates, florescent fixtures, and the like so that if a short develops along a current-carrying wire (the hot wire or the common) in contact with the housing, the current will be carried away by the ground wire (to the ground outside, by means of water pipes or a separate grounding connection that is part of the electrical supply system). Without this ground wire the housing would be "hot" when an internal short developed and a person touching it would get a dangerous shock - the current would, in effect, be gounding through his body. But the grounding system prevents this by causing the fuse/breaker to blow/trip beforehand, thus protecting circuits and equipment against overheating, while also protecting users against severe shock.
In most buildings wired during, and since, 1963 this protection is accomplished by a separate ground wire (usually colored green) or a bare wire inside the cable which connects all switches, receptacles, and boxes in a continuous loop with the main ground in the service panel. This is the same wire which is connected to the third hole in three-prong plugs. In buildings which have BX cable, the metal housing of the cable may serve as the third or ground wire, while in some buildings which have nonmetallic cable there should be a bare wire inside the cable which is connected to all metal oulet boxes and switch boxes. (Same warning as above).
There how's that. Want me to write something up on the fixture not having a cover, also. I thought I was answering a question as a Home Inspector, not as an electrical expert (which I'm not). Guess I didn't know that these questions were just for a select few.
Originally Posted By: roconnor This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I agree a general comment that the installation needs to be repaired by a licensed professional works … but add to the list that the wiring is not secured or protected from damage, and an extension cord is not an acceptable wiring method for a fixture …
That picture should be titled "Harry Homeowner Strikes Again" ...
-- Robert O'Connor, PE
Eagle Engineering ?
Eagle Eye Inspections ?
NACHI Education Committee
I am absolutely amazed sometimes by how much thought goes into doing things wrong
Originally Posted By: jmertins This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
With all due respect to the previous posts I agree with Blaine. Short , sweet and to the point. Defer to the licensed electrician. Why put yourself in liabilities way?
Originally Posted By: hgordon This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
followed by the issue, such as Electrical or whatever.
As Robert pointed out in this post, it would be just for educational discussion where we could help others by looking at a photo and sharing our expertise.
In other words, we would teach each other to look for thing that are not there that should be there and point out things that are there that should not be there.
Originally Posted By: Harold Endean This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Just my 2 cents about that picture. You said it was in a garage? How about GFCI protection? How low is the outlet? Or how high is the outlet? A GFI might be required here.
