Originally Posted By: rstuart This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
I thought I might add: it is a 100amp service with an old, rusted meter box that has water from a broken gutter dumping directly on top of it every time it rains.
The panel is Federal Pioneer and is jammed full.
All manner of wiring, incl. directly spliced K’nT, grounded and ungrounded circuits. I don’t believe the wiring for the re-model was done by a qualified electrician.
What would cause the lights to blow (not all at once but piece by piece)?.
Originally Posted By: jmyers This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Ross,
I have had a lot of experience with these types of bulb failures. I personally believe it comes from heat build up in the can and vibrations. Vibrations seems to be the main culprit, since I had several children bouncing around the house all day. The filaments in these types of bulbs seem to be more frail than their A base incandescent counterpart.
Years ago I tried the GE wattmiser bulbs and I got so damn disgusted with replacing them all once a week, I went to a lower wattage standard bulb. While it helped, I still ended up replacing most of them every month.
They should try diagnosing that circuit to ensure there are not other problems which are contributing, such as undervoltage or overvoltage.
Are there any motor loads on that circuit? Is there anything else on that circuit, which could be affecting those lights? While it does not sound like there is a loose neutral wire, it certainly would not hurt to check as they don't always "show" when they are loose.
Originally Posted By: jmyers This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Ross,
I have never heard of not being able to touch the bulb portion of a reflector bulb. Now halogen is a different story, you don't want to get anything on those.
Originally Posted By: rstuart This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Thank you all for your input.
I’m not aware of any motor load on that circuit and they claim there is no dimming.
The voltmeter registers 110v.
Vibrations are a possibility - thank you for that! There are three very heavy people in that house. It is also possible that the re-modellers insulated all around the housings and the cans are getting hot - but apparently the thermal limit switches are not tripping.
I will suggest the vibration theory to them - but what to replace the bulbs with?
‘get a licensed electrician’ were pretty much the first words out of my mouth, but they were not impressed. The re-model had cost them a fortune.
Originally Posted By: jmyers This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Ross,
110 volts is low, maybe too low. If you have overvoltage and undervoltage it plays HE** with those light bulbs. I believe JP stated a while back that anything under 115 volts is bad.
No matter what those people think of you, recommending a sparky diagnose the problem with the circuit is certainly the way to go.
Originally Posted By: jmyers This post was automatically imported from our archived forum.
Greg,
I believe you are correct, well partly. While light bulbs do just burn dimmer in undervoltage situation, I am pretty certain below a certain voltage, it can and will shorten bulb life, just as if it were an overvoltage.
After A conversation with the GE rep, while I was working with an electrical distributor, he suggested I try regular bulbs instead of the wattmeiser bulbs, since the filaments on those bulbs are frail.
You can check with different distributors as they make, or used to make, bulbs which are made for use in industrial area's with high vibrations.
