New house, fair number of exposed nail heads, some were caulked with silicone, some were left exposed. I can see that there is no way to avoid a few exposed nail heads on the ridge (on the ends) but not why they would be randomly scattered across the roof. Also if it were me, I would never use silicone on a roof, or where it was exposed to weather, and plan to write it up that way. (silicone does not stick well to rough surfaces exposed to weather, such as asphalt shingles, a non curing sealant such as tar should be used…)
Any roof specialists can tell me I am over reacting? I don’t think its a big deal, but it is a new house.
OK I looked it up, so, I now now what siding contractors call a pump jack. I am in oil country Still ta me, those nails should a been pulled and the holes caulked, what say others?
If you pull the nails it will create a hole that needs to be filled further than just a bit of caulking on the nail head. If there is ice and water shield under (common use here in Vermont, roofers will do the whole roof with it), it will seal around the nail also. The caulking should be plenty to keep it sealed.A lot of guys will actually sprinkle roof stones on the caulking after applying.
In my earlier years, I’ve pulled the nail and done the stone sprinkling thing, too. But only after lifting the upper shingle and tarring (not caulking) the hole and pushing the top shingle back into place. Some tar will squeeze out on top and that is where I sprinkled the few stone that I retrieved from the gutter. I never found that caulk stay stuck to the shingle, hence, I used roofing plastic/tar.
All the time it just takes a little longer and requires a good roofer with knowledge.
Shingling a low-slope roof
Q: I plan to reshingle the low-slope roof (2-in-12 pitch) on my country cabin here in Canada. I would rather not have to remove the old shingles, but the roof has begun to leak. Can I just shingle over the existing roof, and do I need to use a special type of shingles?
* Mauri Meere , Ottawa, Ontario, ca *
A: *Former senior editor Roe A. Osborn replies:* According to the [(http://ec.tynt.com/b/rf?id=dFBVZMQ4Gr45-vacwqm_6l&u=FineHomebuildingMagazine)
In This Article:
Shingle tabs are** lifted up** and metal roof jacks nailed through the roof into the framing also. 2x10 planks are fastened to rows of roof jacks to create a stable work surface.
No kidding!
Not sure what the holes are for because both do not require holes on top of the shingles. Even best practice for vents is to prevent exposed holes whenever possible.
The nail patching locations in the OP’s 1st post picture is where pump jack brackets would be nailed, typically. But, of course, not through the top of the shingles. I can’t see how roof jacks would connect in those locations. There would only be one per row. :shock:
But, none-the-less, the patchwork is less than satisfactory. We can agree on that.
Still ta me, those nails should a been pulled and the holes caulked, what say others?
I never found that caulk stay stuck to the shingle, hence, I used roofing plastic/tar.